I Love Bicycling

I Love Bicycling is geared towards cycling for beginners with road cycling tips, training articles, nutrition tips, weight loss, how to's and bike repair articles.

Gear

A Guide to the Best Cycling Sunglasses

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When you’re first getting into cycling, sunglasses may not be on the top of your list of must-haves. Most people will throw on their everyday sunglasses and hop on their bike. However, depending on the fit, they may become a pain in a hurry. There are a few things that make cycling sunglasses (or sports performance sunglasses) more up for the task at hand.

What to Look for in Cycling Sunglasses

Fit

Fit with any type of apparel is important, but sunglasses that don’t fit properly can slide down your nose, give you a pressure headache, or even create blindspots in your vision. Most brands of cycling sunglasses will have hydrophilic rubber on the nose and arms, which actually gains grip as you sweat. You will also want to try sunglasses on with your helmet to make sure the arms are comfortable. Most will have straight-back temples for optimal helmet compatibility.

Shape and Coverage

When you’re on your bike, you want the biggest field of vision possible for your own safety. When you shoulder check, you don’t want the edge of your sunglasses getting in the way and blocking your view of traffic. This is why most cycling sunglasses wrap around and include your peripherals.

Lenses

Lighter lenses are better for cycling because they can help enhance the contrast of the road, allowing you to see obstacles or rough pavement before you hit it. Most of these will have UV protection, so they will protect your eyes, but grey lenses can make the ground, shadows and potholes all look the same. Investing in prescription sunglasses can also be great for those who don’t want to wear contacts, but you will want to get the wrap around lenses so you will have clear vision in your peripherals.

The Best Cycling Sunglasses

Oakley Radar EV

Price: $193

Oakley’s original Radar eyewear combined everything they learned from decades of research with the world’s best athletes, and came out with the Oakley Radar EV. These have taller lenses, extending vision, and PRIZM Road lenses. A step beyond polarized lenses, this technology enhances contract like never before. With a lightweight design and replaceable nosepiece, you won’t even feel like you’re wearing them.

Julbo Aerolite

Price: $189

Designed with the help of world-class ultrarunners, mountain bikers and road cyclists, the Julbo Aerolite is super lightweight and fast. They have a rimless design with a wide lens surface for broad field of vision and an aerated structure that allows complete air circulation to avoid fog. With a smaller design, these are a great option for women or people with small faces, and the nose pads are adjustable to ensure a snug fit.

Bolle B-Rock

Price: $115

The Bolle B-Rock sunglasses have the benefits of the single wrap around lens, but with the added stability of a full frame. The lenses are treated with an oleophobic layer (repelling dirt, grease and water), anti-fog, and anti-reflective technology. The nosepiece adjusts both front to back, and side to side –which is great if you find other models sit too close to your eyes and eyelashes.

Smith Attack Max

Price: $249

Lightweight with extended lenses, the Smith Attack Max are for the more aggressive rider. If you spend a lot of time down on your drops, then these are probably the glasses for you. With a hydroleophobic finish, they keep sweat or rain from fogging up the lenses.

Spy Helm 2

Price: $100

The Spy Helm 2 are a great option for those wanting to buy just one pair of sunglasses that will be good for running, cycling, and hitting the patio for some post-ride beers. This upgraded model has five-barrel hinges making them “nearly indestructible” and include Happy Lens technology. Spy claims that this let’s in the good rays, while blocking out the bad ones.

Beginner’s Guide: What To Wear Cycling

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Figuring out what to wear cycling can be a little confusing when you’re starting out. If you’re new to the sport, putting on a pair of funny looking shorts and a jersey may seem unnecessary. However, all it takes is a couple rides in a baggy t-shirt and you’ll be more than willing to give it a try.

A lot of it comes down to wind resistance, a snug fit to avoid chafing, and moisture wicking material. So, that loose fitting t-shirt won’t do you any favours as you get faster and stronger. Plus, having a cool looking jersey can make you feel like a pro and have you ripping up those climbs in no time.

What To Wear Cycling

What to Wear Cycling: The Cycling Kit

You may hear the term “cycling kit” thrown around when you’re just starting out. A cycling kit refers to the core cycling clothing: the combination of cycling shorts (with a chamois) and a jersey.

Step 1: Bike Shorts

Bike shorts may just be one of the most important pieces of gear you’ll get for cycling. Cycling shorts will include a chamois, which is the padded part. When you wear these shorts correctly (without underwear), the chamois not only adds a little extra padding for your sit bones, but it also but also prevents chafing. The three main reasons to wear bike shorts are:

  • Extra Cushion – The padded area provides a smooth surface for your bottom, with no uncomfortable seams or uneven bits.
  • Reduce Friction – The snug fitting fabric moves with you as you pedal, minimizing the chance of chafing.
  • Moisture Management – Normal pants or shorts can act as a trap to moisture, keeping sweat on your skin while making the material damp. Cycling shorts are made from materials that work to move and evaporate moisture away from your skin.

Not only will a good pair of bike shorts allow you to ride longer, a bad pair will make for a painful experience! Ensure shorts should be snug enough so they will conform to your body and not shift with your movements.

Shorts vs Bibs – Bike shorts come in two styles: regular shorts or bibs. Bibs are bike shorts with built in suspenders. Most beginners will shy away from the look of them, but once you try them, few go back. Since they have no need for an elastic waistband, bibs can be more comfortable as they conform to your body. When bibs are worn under a jersey, they look just like regular bike shorts.

Step 2: Jersey

Similar to bike shorts, cycling jerseys are made from materials that should work to get moisture away from your body. The general design will be a zipper down the front, with back pockets specifically designed to carry food, tools, and whatever else you’ll need out on the road. They have a shorter front panel (as you will be bent over on your bike), with a longer back panel. The bottom hem will have silicon grip tape to keep the jersey in place as you ride. A jersey should be fairly form fitting to keep you as aerodynamic as possible.

Step 3: Layers

Although bike shorts and a jersey are the basics, knowing how to layer to stay comfortable in any weather is an important skill. The most important thing is to keep your core temperature consistent as you ride. Being too warm or too cold both waste energy, so you want to avoid it whenever possible.

It’s always a good idea to take a waterproof outer shell with you just incase you get caught in a rainstorm. There are also bike tights or pants you can get to wear over your bike shorts to stay warm on those cooler rides.

Step 4: Accessories

Cycling Caps

Cycling caps are great to both keep your head warm in the winter, and keep the sun and sweat out of your eyes in the summer. Plus, they look pretty cool when you stop at a coffee ship on your ride.

Gloves

It’s nice for beginners to have a bit of padding on the palm of their hand, which cycling gloves can offer. You can get fingerless gloves for the summer, and then full moisture-wicking gloves for the winter months.

Cycling can be an intimidating sport to get into, especially when you walk into a bike shop with no idea where to start. You may see a ton of kitted out riders with all the bells and whistles, but you really don’t need much to get started. Start off with the basics, and you can build from there!

How To Remove Bike Grease From Your Clothes

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It may be one of life’s mysteries, but no matter how careful you are, bike grease somehow seems to make it onto your clothes. Whether it’s your prized lycra or commuting attire, finding that little dark smudge can be a bummer. The truth is, it’s tough to remove bike grease from clothes, but luckily it’s not impossible!

Changing a flat or performing mid-ride drivetrain surgery can leave your hands a grimy mess. If you don’t have anything with you to take care of it, that grease is going to end up all over your bar tape or grips, and most likely make it onto your clothes. It also feels nasty on your hands. To avoid this, and in turn save your clothes, be sure to head out on every ride or commute prepared for the worst.

Step 1: Degreaser Wipes

You may not think of bringing degreaser wipes with you on every ride, but they definitely come in handy! They are an easy way to quickly clean grease off your bike and hands if you’ve had to do any roadside fixes, but they can also be the first stage of attack on grease spots on your clothes. Simply give the grease spot a quick wipe, as the longer it sits on the material the harder it will be to get out. You can then tackle it full force once you get home. You can get single serve packs that you can easily fit in your saddlebag, or use a ziplock bag to bring a couple from a larger container.

Step 2: Wash the Spot(s)

Option 1 – Use Dishwashing Liquid

Remove Bike Grease From Clothes

Once you get home, you can further remove bike grease from clothes with dishwashing liquid. This works best on recent stains on synthetic fabrics and cotton. Dish soap is great at fighting grease and breaking down oil, so it’s naturally up for the task. Put a small amount directly on the spot and rub it into the fabric with your fingers or an old toothbrush. For tougher stains, combine dish soap and a little of baking soda and stir it into a paste, then apply.

Once you’ve let this sit for a minute or two, rinse the area with cold water. Place the fabric under the tap, with the stain side down so the water is running through to the front of the stain. Hang it to dry, keeping an eye on the stain. If it’s gone, then you can wash and dry the garment as usual. If it reappears, repeat the process above. Make sure you never tumble dry an item of clothing with bike grease on it, as it well set the stain and make it almost impossible to remove.

Option 2 – Use Baking Soda

If you happen to ride your bike in your finest silk, wool, or another delicate cloth, then you’ll want to give these item a little extra love when the grease hits it. Cover the stain with dry baking soda and leave overnight. The powder should absorb the grease, making it easy to brush off in the morning. Wash as usual and hang to dry to ensure the stain does not reappear.

Best Road Bike Pedals

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When you’re riding your bike, you make contact with it at three main points: the handlebars, the saddle, and the pedals. As your legs are working to drive the bike forward, the road bike pedals are arguably one of the most important components on a bicycle.

When we talk about road bike pedals, we are generally talking about the clipless cleat and shoe system. There are over the toe straps that can work great for some, but for the purposes of this article we are referring to the clipless (or strapless) system.

What are Clipless Pedals

Clipless pedals have a spindle just like a normal platform pedal, but the plastic or metal platform is shaped in a way to allow the second part of the system, a matching cleat, to snap into it. A spring-loaded mechanism then secures the cleat in place so it doesn’t slide around or release. A cleat is then attached to the cycling shoe, made specifically for these cleats to be attached to the bottom via bolts.

How they work

On the pedal there is a spring mechanism that holds the cleat to the pedal. To clip in, line the cleat up with the pedal and then push down, just like a ski binding. To release the shoe from the pedal, a simple twist of the heal outward releases the cleat.

Why go clipless?

Why go clipless? Clipless pedals with cycling shoes is the most efficient and comfortable system out there when it comes to road biking. The stiff sole of the cycling shoe provides a rigid platform to transfer power from your legs to the drivetrain and propel the bike forward. Softer shoes lose some of that power as the flexible sole deforms around the pedal (and also makes your feet sore).

As well as having stiff soles, being clipped in encourages proper pedalling technique, using power through every part of the pedal stroke. Not only are you pushing down, but you are also pulling up to complete the 360 degree motion, making the switch to clipless pedals well worth it.

What to look for when buying pedals

  • Cleats – The majority of  road cycling cleats are three bolt (SPD-L), with two bolt (SPD) being more appealing for commuting, touring, and mountain biking. Some cleats are a compatible with both.
  • Tension Adjustment – When you’re first switching to clipless pedals, the most intimidating thing is not being able to get unclipped quickly when you need to stop. The slow motion topple over is almost a right of passage, but it can be lessened by decreasing the tension. Be sure to get pedals that allow you to adjust this tension, starting low and increasing the tension as you become more confident.
  • Float – Float refers to the wiggle room you have while clipped into the pedal to get into the most comfortable position for your legs. Most pedals have about 3-9° of float, but keep in mind the more float you have the more you will have to twist your foot to release. Some pedals are zero float, but you will want to make sure you’ve had a detailed bike fitting before locking in with zero wiggle room.
  • Stack height – Stack height is the measurement from the middle of the pedal axle to the bottom surface of the shoe. The smaller the stack height, the more efficient your pedaling will be as your foot is closer to the axle.

The Best Road Bike Pedals

Best All-Round Pedal: Shimano Ultegra PD-R8000 SPD-SL Pedals

Price: $120

Before going into any of the features that make this pedal great, the ease of use is its greatest selling point. They require little to no maintenance, are durable,  and remain easy to clip in and out of even when mud and snow is involved. They also hang well when unclipped to make for a quick and easy clip in.

With a carbon composite body, these pedals are a great choice for competitive and casual cyclists alike. Evolved from the Pd-6800, the R-8000 has a 0.7mm lower stack height and a lighter weight at just 248g.

Most Adjustable Pedal: Speedplay Zero Pedals

Price: $189

If you struggle with knee pain, then these are the pedals for you. The twisting motion to release the pedal can be painful on the knee joint, so the Speedplay Zero allows the widest range of tension adjustment to ensure this isn’t a problem. All three foot-axis adjustments can be set independently of each other for a precise and comfortable fit. The locking mechanism does not rely on spring tension for security, so entering and exiting Zero pedals is easy, and they are dual-sided entry to allow for an easy clip in.

Most Budget-Friendly Pedal: Shimano PD-R550

Price: $56

The Shimano PD-R550 are the perfect pedal for cyclists looking to transition to the clipless system. Not only are they extremely affordable, but that have a wide platform that feels more like a traditional platform pedal while giving you the efficiency of being clipped in. There is a wide range of tension adjustments so you can start with a lower tension and build up your confidence. Made from a resin body with a stainless steel cover, they are durable and have a large entry point to keep from struggling to get your foot in just the right position.

The Best Cycling Caps

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There’s a certain classic look that comes with cycling caps, harkening back to the old days of cycling.

The Best Cycling CapsCycling caps came from the pre-helmet era, but have survived as a both a fashion statement and a functional piece of gear that goes under your helmet. Retro and relatively cheap, they are a great addition to any cycling kit to add your own sense of style.

Beyond looking chic, cycling caps are also functional. They keep sweat, rain, and sun out of your eyes in the heat of summer, and can keep your head cozy on cold, wet rides. They are lightweight and flexible enough to sit under your helmet, and in most cases are one-size-fits-all.

When you stop in at a coffee shop for a mid-ride snack, a cycling cap is a great way to hide your helmet hair and keep you looking sharp. There are also a variety of ways to wear a cycling cap, you can keep the brim down, or you can flip it up and look extra awesome (see photo above). Available in a ton of colors and designs, here are a few of the best out there.

Pearl iZUMi Barrier CYC Cap

The Best Cycling Caps

Price: $20

Made from lightweight polyester, this cap is a great form of wind protection and water resistance. Fitting easily under your helmet, it even has a low profile ponytail port for those of you with long hair.

Giro Classic Cotton Cap

The Best Cycling Caps

Price: $24.95

This classic design lets everyone know that you are a serious cyclist. It can be worn under your helmet, or on its own off your bike. It provides everything you would expect: shade from the sun, cover from wind and rain, and wicks away sweat when you’re pushing through the miles. One size fits all, this cap also comes in a ton a designs, so you can even find one to match your bike.

Hysenm Tour De France Champion Cap

The Best Cycling Caps

Price: $11.99

If you have a less hair than you used to and need to protect your head from the sun, this champion cycling cap will do just that. With an environmentally thermal transfer point, it keeps your head cool and protects your sensitive skin from the harsh sun (you don’t want weird burn lines on your head). The brim flips up and stays up when not in use, and is short enough to still give you the full view of your cycling scenery. It may not get you to the Tour de France, but it can make you look like a pro.

CatEye – Cycling Cap

The Best Cycling Caps

Price: $12.31

A hybrid combination of polyester, nylon, and spandex, this cap wicks moisture away from you and dries incredibly fast. Lightweight and very stretchable, this cap won’t make your head feel claustrophobic in your helmet. There are also reflective strips for visibility if you choose to wear it running or walking as well.

Brooklyn Team Cycling Cap

The Best Cycling Caps

Price: $18.99

A lightweight blend of cotton, this Italian-made cap is classic in both look and feel. It also can be easily stored in a jersey pocket when not in use.

The Essential Cycling Accessories

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Cycling can be an intimidating sport to get into, especially when you walk into a bike shop with no idea where to start. You may see a ton of kitted out riders with all the bells and whistles, but you really don’t need much to get started. The essential cycling accessories can not only be affordable, but can last you years to come.

Essential Cycling Accessories

What you need:

1. A Bike

Okay, this one is pretty self explanatory. Check out this article on “How to Choose Your First Road Bike” for more information.

2. A Helmet

The second most important piece of equipment after your bike should be a helmet. Whether you’re doing a five minute commute to work or heading out for a couple hours, never get on your bike without a helmet. There is not doubt a helmet can save your life, so ensure you get one that is a proper fit. On a side note, don’t be tempted by the UFO-looking aero helmets, unless you are a professional, you really don’t need it!

Core Accessories

These items may not be absolutely necessary, but they can definitely make cycling more enjoyable, especially when you’re just starting out.

A Bike Lock

Unless you plan on only riding from your house, and never stopping out on the road for a coffee or snack, then you’re going to need a bike lock. You may think the bigger the better, but the size of the lock is less important than the functionality. There are dozens of different bike locks on the market, so be sure to invest in one that can give you peace of mind when you have to leave your bike.

Cycling Clothing

Obviously you don’t need to go all in with the lycra to go on your first ride, but a couple staple items will make the experience a lot more comfortable. First is a waterproof jacket or shell that can keep you dry and warm even if the weather takes a turn for the worse. The second a solid pair of cycling shorts with a good chamois. These will feel awkward at first (kind of like wearing a diaper), but they allow you to feel more comfortable, powerful, and in control while on the bike. Cycling shorts will also allow you to ride for longer periods of time without discomfort or risk of saddle sores.

Many cyclists claim that you have to go with clipless pedals and cycling shoes to ensure efficient riding. True, this system does help you with power transfer, and can be a big step in improving your cycling, but you don’t necessarily need to start with them. Besides, the idea of being clipped into the bike can be daunting for a lot of beginners, so take you time and grow into the idea as you become more confident in your cycling skills.

Pump, Spares, Tools

You won’t want to have to end your ride and take your bike into the shop every time you get a flat. You’ll need both the tools and the know-how to take care of some of the most common bike fixes. A good tire pump, multi tool and spare tubes (if you have clincher tires) will go a long way to keep you out on the road. For some basic maintenance and repair, check out “101 Best Bike Repair and Maintenance Tips.”

A Water Bottle

Staying hydrated on your bike is key to both how you’ll feel and can affect your overall health. Ensure you always have water with you when you head out on a ride, whether in the water bottle and cage system, or a hydration pack.

A Saddle Bag

If something goes wrong on a ride and you’re stuck without tools and supplies, you’re walking or calling for help. It’s not so much having a tool for each and every issue, it’s about having the right tools and supplies to get you back on the road again. A saddle bag is the easiest way to carry all the essentials to keep you rolling.

Cycling Cap

A cycling cap is for both function and style. It keeps the sun out of your eyes as well as sweat and rain, and winter caps can keep you warm on a chilly day. Also, if you use your bike for commuting around town and are worried about having hemet-hair, a cycling cap can be a great lightweight fix.

Cycling Glasses

You may have a pair on sunglasses you’ll wear on those bright, summer days, but wearing glasses while on your bike can do more than shield from the sun. Glasses help break the wind when you’re riding, preventing eye irritation. They also work wonders to keep bugs, rain, and other debris from smacking you in the eyeball (which is not a pleasant experience). Many cycling glasses will come with interchangeable lenses, so you can wear the same pair no matter what the weather.

A Beginner’s Guide to Bikepacking Bags

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With the rise of mountain biking and the increasing popularity of long distance off-road riding, bikepacking has emerged as an alternative to traditional bike touring. As a compact and light way to carry all the necessities on the trail, there are a variety of bag combinations that can make up your perfect off-road bikepacking system.

Bike touring vs. Bikepacking

Generally speaking, bike touring refers to the traditional rack and pannier set up on a touring specific bike, most suited for smooth roads (see below). Bikepacking is a more universal gear setup that can fit onto almost any bike, whether full suspension, carbon, or fatbike.

With the compact nature of bikepacking comes very limited space. You will have to be more intentional with what you take with you, and every little thing should be absolutely necessary. That being said, with off road abilities comes endless opportunities for adventures, and if you haven’t tried bikepacking yet, you may want to add a trip to your bucket list.

Left: Touring setup, Right: Bikepacking setup

Types of bikepacking bags

As almost any bike can be your vehicle for a bikepacking trip, your selection of gear will vary. You can chose to get custom fit bags specific for your bike, or do some bike measurements and go with a universal kit that will fit your frame. A bikepacking ‘kit’ will include the following:

Frame Pack

A frame pack fits within the ‘triangle’ of the bike (formed by the top tube, seat tube and downtube). As this is within the center of the bike, it’s great for storing heavier items like water, cooking gear and food. You may also want to include spare tubes and any tools in the frame pack.

Handlebar Roll or Harness

Taking the shape of either a roll or a harness, the handlebar pack should be kept relatively light so it doesn’t throw off your steering abilities. The roll works well to hold a small tent or sleeping mat.

Seat pack

The seat pack may look a little strange at first as it goes directly under/beneath the seat of your bike. However, this design is wind resistant, doesn’t flap around, and doesn’t get in the way of your legs when you have to walk your bike (unlike a pannier). Depending on the size, this is where you want to store the majority of your overnight gear.

Accessory bags

The main bags can be awkward to get in and out of while you’re riding, which is what the accessory bag is for. Perfect for holding small snacks and your cell phone, there are both stem and top tube options for an accessory bag.

Backpack

A small backpack may be unavoidable, and is perfect for your spare layers of clothes. It makes for easy access should the weather take a turn for the worse.

Beginner – Getting into it

Budget: $250

If you’re just dipping your toe into the world of bikepacking, there’s no reason to go out and spent hundreds of dollars on bags that you may use once or twice and then stuff into your overflowing storage unit. Chances are, you already have most of what it takes to get out there for a night or two.

Head out for an overnight ride with a backcountry campground or shelter halfway. Try your first trip during the summer months so you don’t have to be as worried about bringing enough gear to stay warm in low temperatures.

What you’ll need:

Dry bags – Dry bags of various sizes can be strapped or clipped onto your bike around the seatpost and saddle rails to make a “seat pack.”

Day pack – Most likely you already have a day pack you can use. This is perfect for carrying your clothes and light snacks.

DIY Handlebar Roll – A large drybag with your tent and sleeping bag can be strapped to your handlebars with Voile Straps. If you don’t mind buying one item to make this easier, check out the Revelate Sweetroll which is basically a glorified dry bag with stackable spacers that provide room for cable and lever interference.

Water bottle Cages – In addition to your regular water bottle cage, you can use electrical tape to attach a cage to the underside of the downtube on your bike or to either side of your forks.

Intermediate – Weekend warrior

Budget: $400

Once you’ve gone on a couple overnights, and no doubt have become addicted to the freedom of it, then it may be time to take your gear up to the next level with you. Depending on the types of trips you’ll want to be heading out on, there’s still no need to break the bank. You can start building up your kit to where you want it to be, but there’s you don’t have to do it all at once.

What you’ll need:

Seat Pack ($130-$200) – This will most likely be the most expensive of the bags, but it’s worth getting a quality seat pack that will last out on your adventures. The Apidura Saddle Pack is a great option, made from highly durable and waterproof dimension polyant. There are three sizes available, from a commuter to a long haul bikepacking size.

Frame Bag ($90-$100) – There are a lot of options out there that are ‘universal’ frame bags, in that they will fit on most bikes. Of course, you are not making the most of the space within your frame, as it likely won’t be an exact fit, but they work well and are a lot cheaper than custom fit bags. You’ll have to choose between a half frame pack (uses the front or top of the triangle and leave room for water bottle carriers) or a full frame pack (utilizes the entire space within the triangle). The Revelate Tangle is a great half frame option.

Handlebar Harness / Roll ($120-$150) – As the perfect spot for your tent, poles, and other bigger items, the handlebar harness is one of the most important aspects of your intermediate kit. As mentioned above, the Revelate Sweetroll bag comes in three versatile sizes, and is one of the better options out there.

Pro – Life on the bike

Budget: $700+

If you’re hitting the trails and have no intention of quitting anytime soon, then it is worth investing in top of the line gear that will have your back day-in and day-out. Many manufacturers offer custom made bags to ensure the perfect fit and features for you and your bike, especially for the frame bag.

Some of the best custom bikepacking bag outfitters are Bedrock Bags (USA), Crater Packs (USA), Old Bag Cycling (Aus), and Porcelain Rocket (Can).

A pro kit will include the following:

  • Seat Pack
  • Handlebar Roll
  • Frame Pack
  • Top Tube Pack
  • Stem Bag (right and left)

4 Ways To Protect Your Bike While Traveling

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Strapping your bike on your car and heading out on an adventure can be a great way to expand your cycling experience. You can find quiet roads or some new new single track and get away from your go-to routes. The only issue can be figuring out how to best protect your bike while travelling from one place to another.

There are quite a few options when it comes to transporting your bike, and you have to find what will work best for you. This will also be determined by what kind of vehicle you have. Here are some of the best ways to protect your bike and ensure your adventure isn’t tainted by a damaged or stolen bike.

Protect Your Bike

Pick the Right Carrier

  • Rear Mounted Carriers

Rear mounted carried are easy to use, but can have some drawbacks to consider. In most cases they limit access to the trunk or back of the vehicle, which can become an issue when it comes to gear. They are also more susceptible to damage, whether it be from dirt and rocks or an accident. You also need to ensure your plates and lights remain visible, as this can be cause for a road fine in many countries.

  • Roof Racks

Not only does a roof rack tell the world that you are a fun Protect Your Bikeoutdoorsy person, but the it is a great option when it comes to transporting your bike. You can either keep your front wheel on, or some require you remove the front wheel and include a fork grabber that can be locked for extra security. Although roof racks generally keep your bike a lot cleaner, it increases your wind resistance and can affect how your car handles. It can also be difficult to get your bike on and off the roof depending on the height. Plus, there is the added risk of forgetting it’s up there and driving under something (like a garage) and hearing that sickening crunch.

  • In your car

Protect Your BikeSome choose to remove the front wheel and transport their bike in the vehicle for piece of mind. Yes, this is the cheapest and perhaps the most secure method, but it does have its drawbacks. Not only can it be awkward to get your bike in and out, but it can damage your vehicle through catching material or bike grease and dirt. Also, it doesn’t leave much room for anything else if you are heading out with some friends or need other gear.

Position the Bike Correctly

Almost all bike carriers will hold the bike frame somewhere for stability. You’ll want to make sure to place the clamp as close as possible to the frame joint as that’s where the frame will be strongest. This is particularly important for carbon frame bikes.

Lock it up

If you are going to leave your bike unsupervised on your car for any amount of time then you’re going to want to lock it up. Many bike racks include a locking mechanism, but an additional lock is always a good idea. Not only does it make thieft more difficult, but it a visual deterrent to bike thieves in the first place. Whenever possible be sure to leave your car and bike in a well lit and populated area.

Keep it clean

To help avoid scratches while transporting your bike, give it a wipe down before popping it on or in your Protect Your Bikecar. This is especially important for carbon bikes. Likewise, you’ll want to keep your bike rack nice and clean to keep dirt from getting trapped between your bike and the rack. If you’re using a rear mounted bike you can also use a bike cover to keep your bike clean and protect it from incoming rocks and dust.

No matter how far you are transporting it, make sure you take the necessary things with you to protect your bike. Always take a bike lock, at rag or wipe to give your bike a quick clean, and a bike cover if you are going to be leaving your bike out in the elements for any period of time.

How to Choose Your First Road Bike

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Are you ready to take the leap and buy your first road bike? You won’t regret it. Cycling is not just a sport, but a lifestyle as well. However, the idea of getting a bike, finding all the right gear, and riding for the first time can be intimidating. With the rise of cycling has come endless options when it comes to manufacturers and components, making it overwhelming the first time you walk into a bike shop.

Don’t be discouraged! Having a ton of options is actually a great thing, as it increases your chances of finding just the right bike for you. You just have to know a little about what you’re looking for.

How to Choose Your First Road Bike

 

Where to start

Rather than walking into a bike shop with no idea what you’re looking for, let’s start with you. Sit down and make a list beforehand: What features are important to you? What type of riding will you be doing most? Are you looking for a commuter bike? Could you use this bike for a race one day? Are you interested in bike touring? What is your price range?

It’s important to get the right bike as it has the potential to determine whether your fall in love with cycling, or deter you from it altogether. That being said, you also need to be honest with yourself. You may regret investing thousands into a bike that you only ride once a week, so map out how many miles you think you’ll be putting in, and also what your destination is at the end of those miles.

The Bike Frame

Material

The frame should be the first part of the bike you look at. There are four main materials from which frames are constructed: carbon fiber, aluminum, steel, or titanium. For a beginner bike, aluminum is the best bang for your buck because of its lightness as well as durability without the fragility and added cost of carbon fiber.

Steel bikes can give a good ride, as they’re not too stiff, but they can be heavy and are a bit dated. Carbon bikes are becoming much cheaper, but for a beginner bike they are a bit overkill as you don’t need the performance advantages of weight nor the detailed feel of how it rides. It’s easy to spot which frame types are which with a little practice and if you don’t know, ask.

Frame Size

How to Choose Your First Road Bike

Just because you are a certain height does not mean you can look at a chart and determine your ideal frame size. There are a lot of variables when selecting the proper frame, the most important being your reach which is affected by the length of the top tube. Your reach can only be adjusted slightly by different stem lengths so there is generally only a few centimetres of adjustability, whereas there is several inches of adjustability in the seat height or seat tube. For more information, check out “What size bike do I need.”

Components

After finding the frame that suits you, you will want to look at the components it comes with.

Chainrings and Cogs

How to Choose Your First Road BikeThere are two sets of sprockets on a bike, one at the front and one at the back. The front sprockets are called chainrings, and they’re located at the front on the crankset (the part that the pedals attach to). Typically, an entry level road bike will have a triple crankset (three chainrings), but some may have a double (two chainrings).

The sprockets at the rear of the bike are called cogs individually, or a cassette when referring to the whole cluster of gears. Most bikes will have 8-10 gears.

Now, don’t let the numbers scare you, but the key thing is to understand how gearing works. Chainrings and cogs are referred to by the number of teeth they have, which you can either count or look for the manufacturer’s number. For chain rings, the higher the number the easier it will be to pedal, but for cogs it’s just the opposite – the larger the number the easier it will be to pedal. So, for example, a 30/42/52 triple crankset and a 12-30 cassette will offer an easier gear than a 39/53 double crankset with a 12-23 cassette. Starting out you will want those easier climbing gears to build up strength and endurance.

The Best Brands

The two main brands of components that are descent, even at their lower end, are Shimano and Sram. Both of these then have upgrade capabilities which gives you a variety of options down the line. The best way to see how each level feels is to test ride them and then compare them to a model both up and down from it.

Wheels

With a beginner road bike, the wheels that come with the bike are typically going to be what you take home as it’s difficult to swap out wheelsets at a shop or on an online distributor. Things to look for are the spoke count in both the front and back, as well as the weight of the wheel. Depending on your weight and your use of the bike, the wheels will most likely have a spoke count of 32. They may be a little heavier than racing wheel, but they are also a lot more durable.

TiresHow to Choose Your First Road Bike

There are three main types of road bike tire setups: clincher, tubular, or tubeless. The most practical choice will be the classic clincher tire setup for its simplicity and ease of use. This does make you susceptible to pinch flats, but changing out a tube on the road is simple once you’ve done it a few times, it can even be done without tools!

This is just the base of what you’ll need to think about before buying your first road bike, and you will also have to consider the essentials (other than the bike) that you will need. For more information, check out our “Complete Guide to Cycling for Beginners.”

Pros and Cons of Tubeless Tires for Road Cyclists

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Tubeless tires have been a mainstay of the mountain biking world for years, and have inevitably made their way into road cycling as well. With mountain biking, tubeless tires allow riders to run their pressure much lower, providing enhanced surface area and grip without the risk of pinch flats. Road tires, however, are more efficient when run at a higher pressure, so what is the benefit of going tubeless?

Traditionally there have been two main options for road cycling tires: clincher and tubular. Clinchers are the best option for the majority of riders, as they are easy to use and fix by swapping out or repairing the inner tube. Tubular tires are lighter and are used by a lot of racers, but unless you have a support vehicle following you on every ride, then replacing a tire is a painfully long and technical process.

Now there is a third option with tubeless tires, but are they worth the leap?

Pros and Cons of Tubeless Tires for Road Cyclists

How do tubeless tires work?

Pros and Cons of Tubeless Tires for Road Cyclists

As the name suggests, tubeless tires do not have an inner tube, and are setup similar to a car tire. The open rubber tie sits firmly on the wheel’s rim, with the air sitting in the cavity between the rim and inside of the tire. In addition, a liquid sealant is used inside the tire to preemptively plug any small cuts in the tire without losing pressure at all.

Tubeless wheel setup

The nice thing about tubeless wheels is that they can be used with both a tubeless tire and the typical clincher (inner tube) setup. The shoulder in the inner rim will have a much more pronounced recess that the tire bead fits securely into (see diagram), rather than the traditional U-shaped rim bed on clincher wheels.

Tubeless tires themselves are designed with a tougher bead to provide an immediate seal with as perfect airtight fit. If you try to fit a tubeless tire on a clinched rim, it will come off as you add pressure.

Are tubeless tires worth it?

Pros

  • Speed – clincher tires have a level of friction between the tube and the tire that tubeless tires eliminate, lessening rolling resistance and making them faster.
  • Less flats – The tubeless setup rules out pinch flats completely, and dramatically lessens the danger of blowouts with the liquid sealant. This has a huge impact on the number of flats you’re likely to experience. Plus, if you do have a flat out on a ride that the sealant can’t handle, you can use a tube to get you home.
  • Comfort – Tubeless tires can be run at a lower pressure (dropping about 15-20 psi) without sacrificing performance. This can enhance your corner grip, traction, and overall comfort. You can even venture off road with the tires being a lot more forgiving than if they were running at full pressure.

Cons

  • Difficulty in fitting – As a system that depends on tight seals and high pressure, installing or removing the tire can be a difficult and frustrating job. So, while the likelihood of flats may be reduced, the process to fix it in the case of total failure can leave you swearing on the side of the road. You may even need an air compressor to get a proper seal.
  • Weight – Tubeless tires are largely heavier than a clincher setup, with thicker sidewalls that add weight.
  • Racers don’t use them – This may or may not matter to you, but racer’s do not use tubeless because of the added weight with minimal gain. However, for the recreational cyclist, the lower risk of flatting may be worth the sacrifice.

Tubeless tires are by no means taking over the roading cycling world (as they have with mountain biking), but as technology advances we may see them grow in popularity. Having tubeless-ready wheels is a great way to go, as it leaves the choice up to you whether you want to stick with clinchers or give tubeless a try.

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