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I Love Bicycling is geared towards cycling for beginners with road cycling tips, training articles, nutrition tips, weight loss, how to's and bike repair articles.

Gear

The Essential Cycling Accessories

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Cycling can be an intimidating sport to get into, especially when you walk into a bike shop with no idea where to start. You may see a ton of kitted out riders with all the bells and whistles, but you really don’t need much to get started. The essential cycling accessories can not only be affordable, but can last you years to come.

Essential Cycling Accessories

What you need:

1. A Bike

Okay, this one is pretty self explanatory. Check out this article on “How to Choose Your First Road Bike” for more information.

2. A Helmet

The second most important piece of equipment after your bike should be a helmet. Whether you’re doing a five minute commute to work or heading out for a couple hours, never get on your bike without a helmet. There is not doubt a helmet can save your life, so ensure you get one that is a proper fit. On a side note, don’t be tempted by the UFO-looking aero helmets, unless you are a professional, you really don’t need it!

Core Accessories

These items may not be absolutely necessary, but they can definitely make cycling more enjoyable, especially when you’re just starting out.

A Bike Lock

Unless you plan on only riding from your house, and never stopping out on the road for a coffee or snack, then you’re going to need a bike lock. You may think the bigger the better, but the size of the lock is less important than the functionality. There are dozens of different bike locks on the market, so be sure to invest in one that can give you peace of mind when you have to leave your bike.

Cycling Clothing

Obviously you don’t need to go all in with the lycra to go on your first ride, but a couple staple items will make the experience a lot more comfortable. First is a waterproof jacket or shell that can keep you dry and warm even if the weather takes a turn for the worse. The second a solid pair of cycling shorts with a good chamois. These will feel awkward at first (kind of like wearing a diaper), but they allow you to feel more comfortable, powerful, and in control while on the bike. Cycling shorts will also allow you to ride for longer periods of time without discomfort or risk of saddle sores.

Many cyclists claim that you have to go with clipless pedals and cycling shoes to ensure efficient riding. True, this system does help you with power transfer, and can be a big step in improving your cycling, but you don’t necessarily need to start with them. Besides, the idea of being clipped into the bike can be daunting for a lot of beginners, so take you time and grow into the idea as you become more confident in your cycling skills.

Pump, Spares, Tools

You won’t want to have to end your ride and take your bike into the shop every time you get a flat. You’ll need both the tools and the know-how to take care of some of the most common bike fixes. A good tire pump, multi tool and spare tubes (if you have clincher tires) will go a long way to keep you out on the road. For some basic maintenance and repair, check out “101 Best Bike Repair and Maintenance Tips.”

A Water Bottle

Staying hydrated on your bike is key to both how you’ll feel and can affect your overall health. Ensure you always have water with you when you head out on a ride, whether in the water bottle and cage system, or a hydration pack.

A Saddle Bag

If something goes wrong on a ride and you’re stuck without tools and supplies, you’re walking or calling for help. It’s not so much having a tool for each and every issue, it’s about having the right tools and supplies to get you back on the road again. A saddle bag is the easiest way to carry all the essentials to keep you rolling.

Cycling Cap

A cycling cap is for both function and style. It keeps the sun out of your eyes as well as sweat and rain, and winter caps can keep you warm on a chilly day. Also, if you use your bike for commuting around town and are worried about having hemet-hair, a cycling cap can be a great lightweight fix.

Cycling Glasses

You may have a pair on sunglasses you’ll wear on those bright, summer days, but wearing glasses while on your bike can do more than shield from the sun. Glasses help break the wind when you’re riding, preventing eye irritation. They also work wonders to keep bugs, rain, and other debris from smacking you in the eyeball (which is not a pleasant experience). Many cycling glasses will come with interchangeable lenses, so you can wear the same pair no matter what the weather.

A Beginner’s Guide to Bikepacking Bags

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With the rise of mountain biking and the increasing popularity of long distance off-road riding, bikepacking has emerged as an alternative to traditional bike touring. As a compact and light way to carry all the necessities on the trail, there are a variety of bag combinations that can make up your perfect off-road bikepacking system.

Bike touring vs. Bikepacking

Generally speaking, bike touring refers to the traditional rack and pannier set up on a touring specific bike, most suited for smooth roads (see below). Bikepacking is a more universal gear setup that can fit onto almost any bike, whether full suspension, carbon, or fatbike.

With the compact nature of bikepacking comes very limited space. You will have to be more intentional with what you take with you, and every little thing should be absolutely necessary. That being said, with off road abilities comes endless opportunities for adventures, and if you haven’t tried bikepacking yet, you may want to add a trip to your bucket list.

Left: Touring setup, Right: Bikepacking setup

Types of bikepacking bags

As almost any bike can be your vehicle for a bikepacking trip, your selection of gear will vary. You can chose to get custom fit bags specific for your bike, or do some bike measurements and go with a universal kit that will fit your frame. A bikepacking ‘kit’ will include the following:

Frame Pack

A frame pack fits within the ‘triangle’ of the bike (formed by the top tube, seat tube and downtube). As this is within the center of the bike, it’s great for storing heavier items like water, cooking gear and food. You may also want to include spare tubes and any tools in the frame pack.

Handlebar Roll or Harness

Taking the shape of either a roll or a harness, the handlebar pack should be kept relatively light so it doesn’t throw off your steering abilities. The roll works well to hold a small tent or sleeping mat.

Seat pack

The seat pack may look a little strange at first as it goes directly under/beneath the seat of your bike. However, this design is wind resistant, doesn’t flap around, and doesn’t get in the way of your legs when you have to walk your bike (unlike a pannier). Depending on the size, this is where you want to store the majority of your overnight gear.

Accessory bags

The main bags can be awkward to get in and out of while you’re riding, which is what the accessory bag is for. Perfect for holding small snacks and your cell phone, there are both stem and top tube options for an accessory bag.

Backpack

A small backpack may be unavoidable, and is perfect for your spare layers of clothes. It makes for easy access should the weather take a turn for the worse.

Beginner – Getting into it

Budget: $250

If you’re just dipping your toe into the world of bikepacking, there’s no reason to go out and spent hundreds of dollars on bags that you may use once or twice and then stuff into your overflowing storage unit. Chances are, you already have most of what it takes to get out there for a night or two.

Head out for an overnight ride with a backcountry campground or shelter halfway. Try your first trip during the summer months so you don’t have to be as worried about bringing enough gear to stay warm in low temperatures.

What you’ll need:

Dry bags – Dry bags of various sizes can be strapped or clipped onto your bike around the seatpost and saddle rails to make a “seat pack.”

Day pack – Most likely you already have a day pack you can use. This is perfect for carrying your clothes and light snacks.

DIY Handlebar Roll – A large drybag with your tent and sleeping bag can be strapped to your handlebars with Voile Straps. If you don’t mind buying one item to make this easier, check out the Revelate Sweetroll which is basically a glorified dry bag with stackable spacers that provide room for cable and lever interference.

Water bottle Cages – In addition to your regular water bottle cage, you can use electrical tape to attach a cage to the underside of the downtube on your bike or to either side of your forks.

Intermediate – Weekend warrior

Budget: $400

Once you’ve gone on a couple overnights, and no doubt have become addicted to the freedom of it, then it may be time to take your gear up to the next level with you. Depending on the types of trips you’ll want to be heading out on, there’s still no need to break the bank. You can start building up your kit to where you want it to be, but there’s you don’t have to do it all at once.

What you’ll need:

Seat Pack ($130-$200) – This will most likely be the most expensive of the bags, but it’s worth getting a quality seat pack that will last out on your adventures. The Apidura Saddle Pack is a great option, made from highly durable and waterproof dimension polyant. There are three sizes available, from a commuter to a long haul bikepacking size.

Frame Bag ($90-$100) – There are a lot of options out there that are ‘universal’ frame bags, in that they will fit on most bikes. Of course, you are not making the most of the space within your frame, as it likely won’t be an exact fit, but they work well and are a lot cheaper than custom fit bags. You’ll have to choose between a half frame pack (uses the front or top of the triangle and leave room for water bottle carriers) or a full frame pack (utilizes the entire space within the triangle). The Revelate Tangle is a great half frame option.

Handlebar Harness / Roll ($120-$150) – As the perfect spot for your tent, poles, and other bigger items, the handlebar harness is one of the most important aspects of your intermediate kit. As mentioned above, the Revelate Sweetroll bag comes in three versatile sizes, and is one of the better options out there.

Pro – Life on the bike

Budget: $700+

If you’re hitting the trails and have no intention of quitting anytime soon, then it is worth investing in top of the line gear that will have your back day-in and day-out. Many manufacturers offer custom made bags to ensure the perfect fit and features for you and your bike, especially for the frame bag.

Some of the best custom bikepacking bag outfitters are Bedrock Bags (USA), Crater Packs (USA), Old Bag Cycling (Aus), and Porcelain Rocket (Can).

A pro kit will include the following:

  • Seat Pack
  • Handlebar Roll
  • Frame Pack
  • Top Tube Pack
  • Stem Bag (right and left)

4 Ways To Protect Your Bike While Traveling

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Strapping your bike on your car and heading out on an adventure can be a great way to expand your cycling experience. You can find quiet roads or some new new single track and get away from your go-to routes. The only issue can be figuring out how to best protect your bike while travelling from one place to another.

There are quite a few options when it comes to transporting your bike, and you have to find what will work best for you. This will also be determined by what kind of vehicle you have. Here are some of the best ways to protect your bike and ensure your adventure isn’t tainted by a damaged or stolen bike.

Protect Your Bike

Pick the Right Carrier

  • Rear Mounted Carriers

Rear mounted carried are easy to use, but can have some drawbacks to consider. In most cases they limit access to the trunk or back of the vehicle, which can become an issue when it comes to gear. They are also more susceptible to damage, whether it be from dirt and rocks or an accident. You also need to ensure your plates and lights remain visible, as this can be cause for a road fine in many countries.

  • Roof Racks

Not only does a roof rack tell the world that you are a fun Protect Your Bikeoutdoorsy person, but the it is a great option when it comes to transporting your bike. You can either keep your front wheel on, or some require you remove the front wheel and include a fork grabber that can be locked for extra security. Although roof racks generally keep your bike a lot cleaner, it increases your wind resistance and can affect how your car handles. It can also be difficult to get your bike on and off the roof depending on the height. Plus, there is the added risk of forgetting it’s up there and driving under something (like a garage) and hearing that sickening crunch.

  • In your car

Protect Your BikeSome choose to remove the front wheel and transport their bike in the vehicle for piece of mind. Yes, this is the cheapest and perhaps the most secure method, but it does have its drawbacks. Not only can it be awkward to get your bike in and out, but it can damage your vehicle through catching material or bike grease and dirt. Also, it doesn’t leave much room for anything else if you are heading out with some friends or need other gear.

Position the Bike Correctly

Almost all bike carriers will hold the bike frame somewhere for stability. You’ll want to make sure to place the clamp as close as possible to the frame joint as that’s where the frame will be strongest. This is particularly important for carbon frame bikes.

Lock it up

If you are going to leave your bike unsupervised on your car for any amount of time then you’re going to want to lock it up. Many bike racks include a locking mechanism, but an additional lock is always a good idea. Not only does it make thieft more difficult, but it a visual deterrent to bike thieves in the first place. Whenever possible be sure to leave your car and bike in a well lit and populated area.

Keep it clean

To help avoid scratches while transporting your bike, give it a wipe down before popping it on or in your Protect Your Bikecar. This is especially important for carbon bikes. Likewise, you’ll want to keep your bike rack nice and clean to keep dirt from getting trapped between your bike and the rack. If you’re using a rear mounted bike you can also use a bike cover to keep your bike clean and protect it from incoming rocks and dust.

No matter how far you are transporting it, make sure you take the necessary things with you to protect your bike. Always take a bike lock, at rag or wipe to give your bike a quick clean, and a bike cover if you are going to be leaving your bike out in the elements for any period of time.

How to Choose Your First Road Bike

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Are you ready to take the leap and buy your first road bike? You won’t regret it. Cycling is not just a sport, but a lifestyle as well. However, the idea of getting a bike, finding all the right gear, and riding for the first time can be intimidating. With the rise of cycling has come endless options when it comes to manufacturers and components, making it overwhelming the first time you walk into a bike shop.

Don’t be discouraged! Having a ton of options is actually a great thing, as it increases your chances of finding just the right bike for you. You just have to know a little about what you’re looking for.

How to Choose Your First Road Bike

 

Where to start

Rather than walking into a bike shop with no idea what you’re looking for, let’s start with you. Sit down and make a list beforehand: What features are important to you? What type of riding will you be doing most? Are you looking for a commuter bike? Could you use this bike for a race one day? Are you interested in bike touring? What is your price range?

It’s important to get the right bike as it has the potential to determine whether your fall in love with cycling, or deter you from it altogether. That being said, you also need to be honest with yourself. You may regret investing thousands into a bike that you only ride once a week, so map out how many miles you think you’ll be putting in, and also what your destination is at the end of those miles.

The Bike Frame

Material

The frame should be the first part of the bike you look at. There are four main materials from which frames are constructed: carbon fiber, aluminum, steel, or titanium. For a beginner bike, aluminum is the best bang for your buck because of its lightness as well as durability without the fragility and added cost of carbon fiber.

Steel bikes can give a good ride, as they’re not too stiff, but they can be heavy and are a bit dated. Carbon bikes are becoming much cheaper, but for a beginner bike they are a bit overkill as you don’t need the performance advantages of weight nor the detailed feel of how it rides. It’s easy to spot which frame types are which with a little practice and if you don’t know, ask.

Frame Size

How to Choose Your First Road Bike

Just because you are a certain height does not mean you can look at a chart and determine your ideal frame size. There are a lot of variables when selecting the proper frame, the most important being your reach which is affected by the length of the top tube. Your reach can only be adjusted slightly by different stem lengths so there is generally only a few centimetres of adjustability, whereas there is several inches of adjustability in the seat height or seat tube. For more information, check out “What size bike do I need.”

Components

After finding the frame that suits you, you will want to look at the components it comes with.

Chainrings and Cogs

How to Choose Your First Road BikeThere are two sets of sprockets on a bike, one at the front and one at the back. The front sprockets are called chainrings, and they’re located at the front on the crankset (the part that the pedals attach to). Typically, an entry level road bike will have a triple crankset (three chainrings), but some may have a double (two chainrings).

The sprockets at the rear of the bike are called cogs individually, or a cassette when referring to the whole cluster of gears. Most bikes will have 8-10 gears.

Now, don’t let the numbers scare you, but the key thing is to understand how gearing works. Chainrings and cogs are referred to by the number of teeth they have, which you can either count or look for the manufacturer’s number. For chain rings, the higher the number the easier it will be to pedal, but for cogs it’s just the opposite – the larger the number the easier it will be to pedal. So, for example, a 30/42/52 triple crankset and a 12-30 cassette will offer an easier gear than a 39/53 double crankset with a 12-23 cassette. Starting out you will want those easier climbing gears to build up strength and endurance.

The Best Brands

The two main brands of components that are descent, even at their lower end, are Shimano and Sram. Both of these then have upgrade capabilities which gives you a variety of options down the line. The best way to see how each level feels is to test ride them and then compare them to a model both up and down from it.

Wheels

With a beginner road bike, the wheels that come with the bike are typically going to be what you take home as it’s difficult to swap out wheelsets at a shop or on an online distributor. Things to look for are the spoke count in both the front and back, as well as the weight of the wheel. Depending on your weight and your use of the bike, the wheels will most likely have a spoke count of 32. They may be a little heavier than racing wheel, but they are also a lot more durable.

TiresHow to Choose Your First Road Bike

There are three main types of road bike tire setups: clincher, tubular, or tubeless. The most practical choice will be the classic clincher tire setup for its simplicity and ease of use. This does make you susceptible to pinch flats, but changing out a tube on the road is simple once you’ve done it a few times, it can even be done without tools!

This is just the base of what you’ll need to think about before buying your first road bike, and you will also have to consider the essentials (other than the bike) that you will need. For more information, check out our “Complete Guide to Cycling for Beginners.”

Pros and Cons of Tubeless Tires for Road Cyclists

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Tubeless tires have been a mainstay of the mountain biking world for years, and have inevitably made their way into road cycling as well. With mountain biking, tubeless tires allow riders to run their pressure much lower, providing enhanced surface area and grip without the risk of pinch flats. Road tires, however, are more efficient when run at a higher pressure, so what is the benefit of going tubeless?

Traditionally there have been two main options for road cycling tires: clincher and tubular. Clinchers are the best option for the majority of riders, as they are easy to use and fix by swapping out or repairing the inner tube. Tubular tires are lighter and are used by a lot of racers, but unless you have a support vehicle following you on every ride, then replacing a tire is a painfully long and technical process.

Now there is a third option with tubeless tires, but are they worth the leap?

Pros and Cons of Tubeless Tires for Road Cyclists

How do tubeless tires work?

Pros and Cons of Tubeless Tires for Road Cyclists

As the name suggests, tubeless tires do not have an inner tube, and are setup similar to a car tire. The open rubber tie sits firmly on the wheel’s rim, with the air sitting in the cavity between the rim and inside of the tire. In addition, a liquid sealant is used inside the tire to preemptively plug any small cuts in the tire without losing pressure at all.

Tubeless wheel setup

The nice thing about tubeless wheels is that they can be used with both a tubeless tire and the typical clincher (inner tube) setup. The shoulder in the inner rim will have a much more pronounced recess that the tire bead fits securely into (see diagram), rather than the traditional U-shaped rim bed on clincher wheels.

Tubeless tires themselves are designed with a tougher bead to provide an immediate seal with as perfect airtight fit. If you try to fit a tubeless tire on a clinched rim, it will come off as you add pressure.

Are tubeless tires worth it?

Pros

  • Speed – clincher tires have a level of friction between the tube and the tire that tubeless tires eliminate, lessening rolling resistance and making them faster.
  • Less flats – The tubeless setup rules out pinch flats completely, and dramatically lessens the danger of blowouts with the liquid sealant. This has a huge impact on the number of flats you’re likely to experience. Plus, if you do have a flat out on a ride that the sealant can’t handle, you can use a tube to get you home.
  • Comfort – Tubeless tires can be run at a lower pressure (dropping about 15-20 psi) without sacrificing performance. This can enhance your corner grip, traction, and overall comfort. You can even venture off road with the tires being a lot more forgiving than if they were running at full pressure.

Cons

  • Difficulty in fitting – As a system that depends on tight seals and high pressure, installing or removing the tire can be a difficult and frustrating job. So, while the likelihood of flats may be reduced, the process to fix it in the case of total failure can leave you swearing on the side of the road. You may even need an air compressor to get a proper seal.
  • Weight – Tubeless tires are largely heavier than a clincher setup, with thicker sidewalls that add weight.
  • Racers don’t use them – This may or may not matter to you, but racer’s do not use tubeless because of the added weight with minimal gain. However, for the recreational cyclist, the lower risk of flatting may be worth the sacrifice.

Tubeless tires are by no means taking over the roading cycling world (as they have with mountain biking), but as technology advances we may see them grow in popularity. Having tubeless-ready wheels is a great way to go, as it leaves the choice up to you whether you want to stick with clinchers or give tubeless a try.

The Best Step Through Bikes for City Riders

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If you’ve ever struggled to get your leg up and over your bike, then you understand the reason for step through bikes. More and more manufacturers are coming to realize that there is huge market potential for easy to board bikes. Typically, even the best step through bikes suffered from weight bearing limitations, but with recent design breakthrough, they can make cycling more accessible to a lot of people.

What Are Step Through Bikes?

Step through bikes are pretty self explanatory. They are bikes with no top tube, making them easy to “step through” to mount. They often use a pedal forward design, with the pedals slightly forward of the seat tube. This makes it easier to maintain the proper seat to pedal distance, while also being able to put their feet flat on the ground while remain seated. The wheelbase will be a bit longer, which can effect handling, but it enhances the overall comfort.

Pro and Cons of Step Through Bikes

Historically, step through bikes have been regarded as women’s bikes as they allow the rider to wear a dress or skirt. However, more and more seniors, commuters, and heavier riders are opting for the easy to mount option. If you’re not quite as flexible and limber as you once were, then it’s a great option to keep you riding.

The biggest disadvantage of a step through frame is the weight, strength and stiffness. The regular diamond shaped design of most bikes is so widely used because it is the better design. The top tube gives the frame strength and stability, while allowing for the use of lightweight materials. To achieve the same strength, step through bikes have had to use heavier materials.

For city cruisers and commuters, the step through design can actually make the most sense. Stopping at stop lights and being able to remain seated while placing you feet on the ground can be plus for a lot of riders. Much more common in Europe, finding a step through bike can be a little tough depending on where you live. However, a lot of manufacturers will ship, so here are some of the best step through bikes.

The Best Step Through Bikes

Public C1

$395

If you live in a relatively flat area, the single speed Public C1 can be a great affordable option. Under $400, it has the iconic European style perfect for comfortable cruising.

Bike ID Step Through

$800

The Bike ID Step Through is made of Hi-Ten steel tubing, weighing in at 15.5kg or 34 lbs. It’s equipped with both a hand brake and a foot brake. Both brake and lever is made of aluminum, and due to a smart quick-release you can remove and replace the wheel without having to change the break settings. It is strong and durable, and will last through years of city cruising!

Shinola Bixby

$1950

The Bixby is offered in both a classic men’s and women’s frame design, with thoughtful touches like gender-specific saddle design and proportional geometry. The Bixby riffs off the fun look of the curved top tube, but improves on the fit and function with nimble frame geometry, a Shimano 3-speed internal hub and disc brakes. The Bixby is more of a hybrid between the step through and diamond design, giving the rider the best of both worlds.

Electra Amsterdam Royal 8i

$1400

The Royal 8i is a lightweight aluminum premium-edition Dutch bike: well-bred for stylish luxury and yet practical everyday cycling. Top-of-the-line Shimano Nexus 8-speed internal hub, smooth and powerful front and rear roller brakes and durable tires with Kevlar puncture-resistant casing are a few of the special upgraded features that make the Royal 8i worth every penny.

 

The Difference Between Freewheel and Cassette

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If you’ve been using the two terms (freewheel and cassette) interchangeably, don’t worry because you’re not alone. If you don’t know which you have on your bike, you can end up wasting a lot of money due to the error. We’re going to help remove some of the confusion by explaining the difference between freewheel and cassette freehubs.

freewheel and cassette

Freewheels (for Threaded Hubs)

Traditional rear hubs have a standardized set of threads that a freewheel or sprocket cluster can be screwed onto. This meant any brand of freewheel could be mounted on any brand of hub. The extractor splines do not turn when the sprockets are spun backwards.Freewheels come with sprockets bolted together, without possibility of swapping them. Pretty much all bikes made through the late 80s used this system.

Cassettes & Freehubs

Over the past few decades, the cassette replaced the conventional threaded rear hub. This newer style hub works so well that they have replaced the traditional freewheel and have become the new standard for contemporary road bikes. One of the major differences between a freewheel and a freehub is the location of the coasting mechanism

It incorporates the ratchet mechanism into the hub body, so you can replace the sprockets only, rather than the ratchet mechanism. Unlike the freewheel and threaded hub system, the lockring splines will turn with sprockets when spun backwards. Additionally, many  freehubs will have a distinctive bulge on the right end of the hub barrel.

 

freewheel and cassette

Whereas freewheels come with sprockets bolted together, without possibility of swapping them, cassettes come with loose sprockets that have spacing between them. Some cassettes do come with sprockets held together with bolts or rivets, but these are just for easier mounting – they can be removed without affecting functionality, so that individual sprockets can be swapped.

Which One Do I Have?

If you’re still not sure what you have on your bike, it’s possible to ID it by how it looks. Freewheel axles are typically recessed slightly into the axle. Cassettes are typically flush with the face of the gears, and you can see the splines, appearing as the rays of the sun around the perimeter. Freewheel axles may also show splines, but not as many as a cassette, and are recessed into the body deeper, around the axle itself, not the gear like a cassette.

Not all Freehubs have this bulge, but whenever you see it, you can be sure that it is, in fact, a cassette Freehub.

Buying and Changing Sprockets

Attention should be paid to this when buying and changing sprockets, so that the right ones are used. Freewheel is screwed onto the rear hub, while cassette is just slid onto the hub splines, held in place with a special lockring. The very end of the (rear) hub differs for each type, so it is easy to identify the standard, even before removing sprockets.

The Best Flat Mountain Bike Pedals

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If you’re a dedicated road cyclist branching out into some mountain biking, you may choose to go directly to clipless mountain bike pedals. Although there are plenty of advantages to riding with the clipless system, starting out on flat mountain bike pedals will help build your technical foundation. Riding on flat pedals keeps you from cheating, and will teach you to move your body and your bike efficiently. It may be frightening to take a break from obsessive wattage and tracking and instead work on some basic skills, but it’s worth it in the long run!

Flat Mountain Bike Pedals
It happens to the best of us.

The Balancing Act

When you’re first starting out, it’s common to balance by shifting your weight too far back. Although this is great to keep you from going over the handlebars, it can make it difficult to maneuver. Riding flat pedals encourages you to shift the weight by dropping your heels, keeping the bike steady and giving you a great platform to stand on.

While being clipped in can be great for forcing you to stay on your bike on technical trails, it can also be intimating when you’re first starting out. Flat pedals give you the peace of mind and confidence to tackle some tough trails knowing that you can easily drop a foot and aren’t at risk of the slow tip-over.

The Best Flat Mountain Bike Pedals

Spank Oozy Trail Platform Pedals

 

 

 

Price: $119

Extremely lightweight, the Spank Oozy Trail Platform Pedals have more than just great looks and a fun name. At just 12mm thin, they offer incredible ground clearance when pedaling in rough terrain. This exceptional thinness also improves stability and pedaling efficiency by bringing your foot almost flush with the pedal axle, drastically reducing dreaded “pedal flip.” Available in four colours, they all have the chamfered edges to keep the pedals from getting that trached look that most colored pedals get after a couple rides.  

 

Crank Brother’s 50/50

Price: $54

The CrankBrother 5050 their classic platform pedal for adventures of any type. Ten adjustable pins per side deliver a degree of grip and customization sure to keep your feet exactly where you want them. The medium-sized platform and thin profile that make them all-around performers, and the huge openings keep the mud-compacting to a minimum.

Race Face Aeffect Bike Pedal

Price: $100

The Race Face AEffect Pedals are strong, light and offer the best of both looks and performance. The chromyl axle and bottom loading hex traction pins can take a beating, making them perfect for trail and downhill riders alike.

Shimano PD-MX80 Saint Pedals

Price: $65

Developed and dedicated to downhill riding, the Shimano Saint MX80 have a unique shape and concave platform for better control and efficiency. The previous MX30s were popular for their durable, smooth rotating axle, and the MX80 carry this over with some added features. They are now slightly wider and lower, allowing for responsive levels of acceleration and deceleration.

Fyxation Gates Slim Platform Pedal

Price: $29

If you’re looking for an entry level flat pedal, then the Fyxation Gates Pedal is a great option. Designed as a BMX pedal, it is made of durable nylon and will work on the trails with ease. Thin bodied with loose ball bearings they can work great for casual mountain bikers and urban riders.

 

A Guide to Bike Tire Sizes

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When you’re looking to replace a tube or tire, it’s important to understand tire sizing. You’d think the markings on tires would make this simple, but all those numbers can be confusing. It doesn’t help that in the early days of cycling, there was no standard system for marking the sizes. Here’s what you need to know about bike tire sizes.

Bike Tire Sizes

A Guide to Bike Tire Sizes

Traditional Sizing Systems

The traditional sizing systems were based on the measurement of the outside of diameter of the tire, so it would be listed as diameter x width. However, the evolution of tires and rims has made these measures inaccurate when it comes to compatibility. Each manufacturer had their own set of sizing standards that only applied to their bikes, so it was hard to buy tires, tubes, and wheels from different manufacturers with confidence that they would be compatible.

The ISO

To remove the headache that was trying to decipher manufacturer’s varied measurements, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) created a system to regulate tire measurement. Most new tires will now show the ISO measurement of: width x diameter.

Tire Diameter

The most important measurement of the tire is the diameter, then the width. The actual outer diameter of the tire may vary based on the tread pattern, so the BDS (bead seat diameter) is the measurement of the inner diameter of the tire. You can find this measurement on the side wall, where you should see two numbers separated by an x (ie: 700×23 or 26×2.10). The BDS is the larger of the two numbers, listed in either inches (700) or mm (26).

Tire Width

The second, smaller number is the tire’s width. As the width increases, the tire will have more contact surface with the road, making it more stable and comfortable. As the width decreases, there is less rolling resistance or friction, and therefore is faster. Road bike tires generally come in three widths: 23c, 25c, and 28c (their width in mm). The letter at the end of a tire size is a throwback to an old French system when the letters a, b and c designated different inner tire diameters – it DOES NOT stand for cm.

When it comes to choosing width, there are two major factors at play. First is what will fit your bike and wheels, and second is what best fits your riding style for comfort and speed. Generally speaking, a width of 25mm will work for most riders. They are widely recognized as the best compromise between comfort, weight and performance. Racers will opt for a smaller width, or if you’re tackling rougher roads, going up to 28mm may be the best option.

In most cases, if you’re replacing a tire you can just look at the numbers on the old one and match them. However, this can become an issue if the old tire isn’t available, or if you’re not sure which number to go off.

For more on bike tire sizing and ensuring you choose the right one, check out the video below.

 

How To Find the Best Bike Saddle For You

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An uncomfortable bike saddle can quickly turn your bike from an instrument of joy to one of torture. Not only can it be extremely painful, but it can also lead to long term injuries or saddle sores as you contort your position on the bike trying to lessen the discomfort. There are a number of factors that contribute to how  comfortable bike saddle is, but the most important one is you.

We are all built differently, so there is no “one size fits all” when it comes to a perch for your unique bottom. What feels comfortable to one person, will feel like torture to another. So, we will outline some things to look into before starting the search for you dream saddle, but keep in mind that it will likely come down to trial and error.

Saddle Features

Width

You may think that the wider the saddle, the more comfortable it would be, but this is not the case. Neither are narrow saddles the be all end all when it comes to finding the best fit. The first step towards finding the most comfortable bike saddle is to measure the distance between your sit bones. This can be done with an “Assometer” at your local bike shop, or at home with a piece of paper and a pencil. Once you know the distance between your sit bones you will want to add 2 cm, 1 cm past the sit bones on each side.

If a saddle is too wide, the nose of it can start to rub on the inside of your quads. If it is too narrow then you sit bones will not be your main point of support for your weight. The pressure will then come down onto soft tissue, which can be extremely painful over any amount of time or distance.

Cut outs

The popularity of cut outs largely came from a 1997 study. It claimed that reduced blood flow caused by saddle pressure could potentially lead to erectile dysfunction and permanent reproductive failure in men. Although this has since been disproved, the concern is still there. It comes down to personal preference and what feels most comfortable to you.

A test to see if you might benefit from a center cut-out is to sit on a hard wooden chair or bench and lean forward without arching your back to where you can rest your elbows on your knees. Sit like this for a few minutes and if you find that there is adverse pressure and discomfort on the soft tissue being pressured then you will most likely benefit from a cut-out in your saddle.

Softness / Firmness

It’s easy to think that the more padding a saddle has the more comfortable it will be, but it actually puts more pressure on sensitive areas. It can pinch and chafe rather than support your sit bones. The ideal firmness will put enough weight on your sit bones, while still providing enough padding to be comfortable. Some riders prefer no padding at all as it puts the pressure exactly where they want it, but that isn’t the case for everyone.

Shape

There are two general shapes for saddles when viewed from above: T-shaped and pear-shaped. If you have issue with chafing or your quads rubbing together, then T-shaped will be the better option for you. A pear-shaped saddle can be good fit if you shift your position a lot while riding, as there will be more evenly dispersed support.

The second aspect of saddle shape if how flat or rounded the surface it. When viewed from the back, how much curvature does the saddle have? You want it to be slightly curved to keep you centered on the saddle, but not so curved that there is pressure on the central areas between your sit bones.

Gender Specific

Looking at saddles designed specifically for men or women may be a good place to start, but don’t let it dictate your decision. Women typically have wider set sit bones, and therefore require slightly wider saddles. That being said, many women find mens saddles that work perfect for them, just as many men ride on womens saddles.

Comfortable Bike Saddles

Touring Saddles

Brooks B17

$120

The B17 design was first introduce in 1910, so it may seem odd to be highlighting it here. However, the fact that this saddle has changed very little over the past century speaks to “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it.” It was made for those long distance tours, with a wider shape and a slim, short nose making it ideal for a more upright position on the bike. Handmade in Birmingham, this leather saddle molds to your bottom over time, giving you the ultimate personalized support.

Selle Anatomica X Series

$150

Unlike the Brook saddle, the X series has no break in period, and is quite comfortable for most riders right from the start. The leather top is supported by a stiffer laminate layer glues to the underside, striking the balance between comfort and durability. The slot shape is meant to eliminate perineal pressure, sit bone pain, and saddle sores.

All-Rounder Saddles

Bontrager Montrose Elite Saddle

$130

Intended to be one of the more all-purpose saddles on the market, the Bontrager Montrose Saddle has been perfected year after year. It uses something called inForm BioDynamics to optimize your natural movement on the bike. This helps eliminate any restrictions on your legs or power output, whether racing or heading out for a group ride.

Fabric Scoop Pro Saddle

$170

It may not look like much, but this simple design is one of the more popular in recent years. Available in three shapes to suit your position on the bike, you can find a specific fit to your riding style. It brings together the perfect combination of comfort, performance, and unique construction. Plus, with the waterproof microfiber, the Fabric Scoop is durable and will stand up to years of use.

Racing Saddles

Selle San Marco Mantra

$214

Weighing in at just 122.1g, this saddle is for racers who are worried about adding any weight to their bike. The stiff design allows for an efficient transfer of power, and is made for those who ride in an aggressive position.

Ritchey WCS Carbon Streem

$144

This light (155g), low-profile design and narrow carbon fibre injected shell is built for the faster riders who prize long-term support. The comfort comes from the shock-absorbing ‘Vector Wing’ rather than padding, so the flat profile will suit hardened racers, but can seem harsh for casual riders.

It is extremely important to find a saddle that not only fits your contour, but is also comfortable. Your saddle is the most important comfort piece on the bike as it holds the majority of your weight, so don’t rush into it. Even with the right size saddle, flat-ness, firmness, and cut-out preference, you may have to adjust your saddle further through minor tilt adjustments.

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