I Love Bicycling

I Love Bicycling is geared towards cycling for beginners with road cycling tips, training articles, nutrition tips, weight loss, how to's and bike repair articles.

Gear

The Best Biking Multi-Tools

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A good multi-tool can be the difference between a minor roadblock in your ride or a long walk home. If your chain breaks mid-ride and you don’t have a multi-tool with you, then you better hope it’s not getting dark.

There are a ton of great multi-tools out there, with pretty much every major cycling brand bringing something to the table. So what makes one better than the other? Let’s start with some features to look for in a tool, and why you need them.

Features to look for in a multi-tool

  • Allen keys – At the core of most multi-tools is the allen key. You’ll want a wide range included, from 4-8mm sizes.
  • Screwdrivers – Most bikes still include a mix of flathead and Phillips screws, so these remain essential. Take a look at the adjustment screws on your derailleur to make sure you have the right fit for your bike.
  • Torx drivers – Torx screws are becoming increasingly popular, and more and more screws on your bike will most likely have a Torx head. The Torx 25 is the standard size that will work for most parts, so make sure there’s one included.
  • Chain splitter – You probably won’t be doing an extensive chain repairs or sizing out on a ride, but if your chain breaks you’ll need a chain tool to dismantle the old broken link. Always carry a joining link for a quick fix.
  • Tire levers – Your best friend when you get a flat, tire levers may or may not be included in a multi-tool. Some include them in the body of the tool itself, or as separate pieces. Regardless, they’re always a good staple to carry in your bag.
  • Spoke keys – Spokes can break and bike wheels can buckle due to a crash while out on a ride. Although this can be a tough fix, you can correct it enough to get you home by tightening various spokes to pull the wheel back into shape with spoke keys.

5 of the best biking multi-tools

Hero Kit – 12 in 1 Cycling Multi Tool

Price: $19

Great for both road and mountain bikes, this multi tool by Hero Kit has 12 features in one lightweight, compact package. Made of stainless steel it’s tough, if not a little on the heavy side, but a great product for the price.

Tools: A chain tool, 6 sizes of allen wrenches, 2 spoke wrenches, T25 Torx bit, and both phillips and flathead screwdrivers.

Crank Brothers M19 Multi Bicycle Tool

Price: $24

The Crank Brothers M19 has all the features you would expect in a multi tool, minus tire levers. A little on the heavier side, the M19 is a mix of tensile steel tools and stainless steel. The stainless steel case included is impossibly hard to open, but the tool itself seals up tight and the case is unnecessary.

Tools: Seven sizes of Allen wrenches, four spoke wrenches, small and large Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, T-25 Torx driver, universal chain tool, and 8- and 10-millimeter open wrenches.

Topeak Mini-20 Pro

Price: $39

This multi tool is perfect for those rides where you’re not carrying a whole lot of gear. It has a compact design, is lightweight, and the 20 tools is a feat in design alone. However, as it’s so compact, it can be tough to get each of the tools out, and the short reach can make getting into certain parts of the bike a challenge.

Tools: 9 sizes of Allen wrenches, T25 Torx wrench, spoke wrenches,  tire lever, steel chain hook, chain tool,  chain pin tool, Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, bottle opener and a spoke holder.

Topeak Alien II 26-Function Bicycle Tool

Price: $49

The Topeak Alien II is the big brother to the Mini-20 with a two piece body and a tool count of 26. As the tool separates in half, you can use both simultaneously and with more ease. With the wide range of tools, it’s perfect for use at home or on the trail, and remains one of the most popular multi tools out there.

Tools: 14g and 15g spoke wrenches, two integrated tire levers, a T25 Torx wrench, Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, a mini pedal wrench for field repairs, eight sizes of Allen wrenches (2 through 10mm), six box wrenches (two 8, 9, and 10mm sizes), a steel wire chain hook, a stainless-steel knife, a chain tool, and compartments for two chain pins.

Park Tool, IB-3, I-Beam 3, Multi-tool, 13 functions

Price: $24

Very similar to the Crank Brothers M19 multi-tool, the IB-3 by Park Tool is just 2 grams heavier with the addition of a 1.5mm Allen key and a tire lever. It’s compact design gives you everything you need for minor repairs out on the road.

Tools: 7 sizes of Allen wrench, straight blade screwdriver, T-25 Torx, tire lever, two spoke wrenches, and a 10-speed compatible chain tool.

A Guide to Bike Tire Sizes

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When you’re looking to replace a tube or tire, it’s important to understand tire sizing. You’d think the markings on tires would make this simple, but all those numbers can be confusing. It doesn’t help that in the early days of cycling, there was no standard system for marking the sizes. Here’s what you need to know about bike tire sizes.

Bike Tire Sizes

A Guide to Bike Tire Sizes

Traditional Sizing Systems

The traditional sizing systems were based on the measurement of the outside of diameter of the tire, so it would be listed as diameter x width. However, the evolution of tires and rims has made these measures inaccurate when it comes to compatibility. Each manufacturer had their own set of sizing standards that only applied to their bikes, so it was hard to buy tires, tubes, and wheels from different manufacturers with confidence that they would be compatible.

The ISO

To remove the headache that was trying to decipher manufacturer’s varied measurements, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) created a system to regulate tire measurement. Most new tires will now show the ISO measurement of: width x diameter.

Tire Diameter

The most important measurement of the tire is the diameter, then the width. The actual outer diameter of the tire may vary based on the tread pattern, so the BDS (bead seat diameter) is the measurement of the inner diameter of the tire. You can find this measurement on the side wall, where you should see two numbers separated by an x (ie: 700×23 or 26×2.10). The BDS is the larger of the two numbers, listed in either inches (700) or mm (26).

Tire Width

The second, smaller number is the tire’s width. As the width increases, the tire will have more contact surface with the road, making it more stable and comfortable. As the width decreases, there is less rolling resistance or friction, and therefore is faster. Road bike tires generally come in three widths: 23c, 25c, and 28c (their width in mm). The letter at the end of a tire size is a throwback to an old French system when the letters a, b and c designated different inner tire diameters – it DOES NOT stand for cm.

When it comes to choosing width, there are two major factors at play. First is what will fit your bike and wheels, and second is what best fits your riding style for comfort and speed. Generally speaking, a width of 25mm will work for most riders. They are widely recognized as the best compromise between comfort, weight and performance. Racers will opt for a smaller width, or if you’re tackling rougher roads, going up to 28mm may be the best option.

In most cases, if you’re replacing a tire you can just look at the numbers on the old one and match them. However, this can become an issue if the old tire isn’t available, or if you’re not sure which number to go off.

For more on bike tire sizing and ensuring you choose the right one, check out the video below.

 

Stay Visible: The Best Use of Bike Reflectors

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Riding at night can be a ton of fun, and it’s unavoidable if you commute on your bike early in the morning or later at night. Ensuring that drivers can see you in tough lighting conditions is the first step in staying safe on your rides. This includes bike lights, reflective gear, and making use of bike reflectors.

Bike Reflectors

Bike Reflectors as a Supplement to Lights

First things first, you’ll want to have a front-facing white light and a rear facing red light (one solid and one blinking is best). These are legally required in many places, and are a very good idea. Reflectors can be used to supplement bike lights, not replace them.

Fortunately, new LED lights are both affordable and long-lasting for those longer rides. Drivers have to be able to see you to have enough time to react, so better to have too many lights than not enough.

If you’re planning on heading down any low light or country roads, you’ll want to ensure your front light is bright enough to light your path. Be sure that all your lights are fully charged before heading out with more than enough battery life for the duration of your ride, and it’s a good idea to have an extra backup light as well.

The Best Use of Bike Reflectors

Bike reflectors work to bounce light back in the direction of it’s source, in this case a car’s headlights. Depending on your bike, it may already have some reflectors. Most new bikes come with a set of reflectors, but are rarely installed by the bike shop before sale. The most common places will be on the back of the pedals, the fork, handlebars, seat post, and rear rack if you have one.

Front and Back Reflectors

Front and back reflectors usually have a bracket that fits around the stem or handlebar. These will either snap shut, or have small screws that hold it in place. Back reflectors will go on the stem below the seat, but make sure it isn’t so high that the seat or your jacket will block it. Front reflectors will go right on the handlebars, or the front stem. If you don’t want to attach reflectors on your bike, strips of reflective tape can be used instead.

Pedal Strips

It’s been proven that drivers will notice the up and down movement of pedaling before the smoother movement of the whole bike, so it’s important to get something reflective on your pedals or feet. For pedals that don’t have built-in reflectors, you can get a reflector attachment that will bolt into your pedals. Or you can use strips of reflective tape on your pedals and wear reflective ankle bands to ensure you are visible.

Tire Spoke Reflectors

You may not want to have tire spoke reflectors on your favourite road bike or mountain bike, but they are a great idea. The rotation of the wheel will make sure you are seen from the sides as well as the front and rear. Basic plastic tire reflectors will snap on and off easily, so you could just put them on for those rides at dust or in the dark.

Cycling at night doesn’t have to be dangerous and can open up a whole new world of riding, not to mention the additional time available to actually do it. Be prepared and stay smart and you’ll reap the benefits of cycling at night be it commuting or getting some extra training in.

How To Find the Best Bike Saddle For You

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An uncomfortable bike saddle can quickly turn your bike from an instrument of joy to one of torture. Not only can it be extremely painful, but it can also lead to long term injuries or saddle sores as you contort your position on the bike trying to lessen the discomfort. There are a number of factors that contribute to how  comfortable bike saddle is, but the most important one is you.

We are all built differently, so there is no “one size fits all” when it comes to a perch for your unique bottom. What feels comfortable to one person, will feel like torture to another. So, we will outline some things to look into before starting the search for you dream saddle, but keep in mind that it will likely come down to trial and error.

Saddle Features

Width

You may think that the wider the saddle, the more comfortable it would be, but this is not the case. Neither are narrow saddles the be all end all when it comes to finding the best fit. The first step towards finding the most comfortable bike saddle is to measure the distance between your sit bones. This can be done with an “Assometer” at your local bike shop, or at home with a piece of paper and a pencil. Once you know the distance between your sit bones you will want to add 2 cm, 1 cm past the sit bones on each side.

If a saddle is too wide, the nose of it can start to rub on the inside of your quads. If it is too narrow then you sit bones will not be your main point of support for your weight. The pressure will then come down onto soft tissue, which can be extremely painful over any amount of time or distance.

Cut outs

The popularity of cut outs largely came from a 1997 study. It claimed that reduced blood flow caused by saddle pressure could potentially lead to erectile dysfunction and permanent reproductive failure in men. Although this has since been disproved, the concern is still there. It comes down to personal preference and what feels most comfortable to you.

A test to see if you might benefit from a center cut-out is to sit on a hard wooden chair or bench and lean forward without arching your back to where you can rest your elbows on your knees. Sit like this for a few minutes and if you find that there is adverse pressure and discomfort on the soft tissue being pressured then you will most likely benefit from a cut-out in your saddle.

Softness / Firmness

It’s easy to think that the more padding a saddle has the more comfortable it will be, but it actually puts more pressure on sensitive areas. It can pinch and chafe rather than support your sit bones. The ideal firmness will put enough weight on your sit bones, while still providing enough padding to be comfortable. Some riders prefer no padding at all as it puts the pressure exactly where they want it, but that isn’t the case for everyone.

Shape

There are two general shapes for saddles when viewed from above: T-shaped and pear-shaped. If you have issue with chafing or your quads rubbing together, then T-shaped will be the better option for you. A pear-shaped saddle can be good fit if you shift your position a lot while riding, as there will be more evenly dispersed support.

The second aspect of saddle shape if how flat or rounded the surface it. When viewed from the back, how much curvature does the saddle have? You want it to be slightly curved to keep you centered on the saddle, but not so curved that there is pressure on the central areas between your sit bones.

Gender Specific

Looking at saddles designed specifically for men or women may be a good place to start, but don’t let it dictate your decision. Women typically have wider set sit bones, and therefore require slightly wider saddles. That being said, many women find mens saddles that work perfect for them, just as many men ride on womens saddles.

Comfortable Bike Saddles

Touring Saddles

Brooks B17

$120

The B17 design was first introduce in 1910, so it may seem odd to be highlighting it here. However, the fact that this saddle has changed very little over the past century speaks to “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it.” It was made for those long distance tours, with a wider shape and a slim, short nose making it ideal for a more upright position on the bike. Handmade in Birmingham, this leather saddle molds to your bottom over time, giving you the ultimate personalized support.

Selle Anatomica X Series

$150

Unlike the Brook saddle, the X series has no break in period, and is quite comfortable for most riders right from the start. The leather top is supported by a stiffer laminate layer glues to the underside, striking the balance between comfort and durability. The slot shape is meant to eliminate perineal pressure, sit bone pain, and saddle sores.

All-Rounder Saddles

Bontrager Montrose Elite Saddle

$130

Intended to be one of the more all-purpose saddles on the market, the Bontrager Montrose Saddle has been perfected year after year. It uses something called inForm BioDynamics to optimize your natural movement on the bike. This helps eliminate any restrictions on your legs or power output, whether racing or heading out for a group ride.

Fabric Scoop Pro Saddle

$170

It may not look like much, but this simple design is one of the more popular in recent years. Available in three shapes to suit your position on the bike, you can find a specific fit to your riding style. It brings together the perfect combination of comfort, performance, and unique construction. Plus, with the waterproof microfiber, the Fabric Scoop is durable and will stand up to years of use.

Racing Saddles

Selle San Marco Mantra

$214

Weighing in at just 122.1g, this saddle is for racers who are worried about adding any weight to their bike. The stiff design allows for an efficient transfer of power, and is made for those who ride in an aggressive position.

Ritchey WCS Carbon Streem

$144

This light (155g), low-profile design and narrow carbon fibre injected shell is built for the faster riders who prize long-term support. The comfort comes from the shock-absorbing ‘Vector Wing’ rather than padding, so the flat profile will suit hardened racers, but can seem harsh for casual riders.

It is extremely important to find a saddle that not only fits your contour, but is also comfortable. Your saddle is the most important comfort piece on the bike as it holds the majority of your weight, so don’t rush into it. Even with the right size saddle, flat-ness, firmness, and cut-out preference, you may have to adjust your saddle further through minor tilt adjustments.

Why You Need to Try Fat Biking

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Do you remember the first time you saw a fat bike? On first impression, it is easy to think they look like some weird fad that will come and go. However, the past few years have proven that this isn’t the case. Gaining in popularity, fat biking has become a category all in its own.

The obvious advantage of a fat bike is the ability to ride in snow and sand more easily that with a regular mountain bike. No matter how funny you think they may look, it’s worth giving a try. Maybe fat really is the new skinny.

Why You Need to Try Fat Biking

What is fat biking?

A fat bike is an off road bicycle designed to accommodate oversized tires, typically 3.8 inches or larger. The first thing you’ll notice, other than the massive tires, is the wide fork build to fit the large tires as well as the low ground pressure. These tires can be run as low as 5 psi to provide the ultimate traction in snow, sand, or mud.

Although the general idea of fatbiking has been around since the early 1900s, they first became commercially popular with Surly Bike’s release of the Pugsley frame in 2005. The rest, as they say, is history.

Why you should try fat biking

It’s a great workoutWhy You Need to Try Fat Biking

Staying fit over the winter in places where it gets cold and snowy is tough. If you love the freedom that cycling brings, it can be hard to find the motivation to go to the gym or hop on a stationary bike. Fatbiking not only allows you to ride outside all winter, but it’s also a great workout. In soft conditions it can be tough going, but you will be expending a ton of energy in a short about of time. You will also be working on your balance and core strength making a great whole body workout. Come spring and hop back on your regular bike, you’ll feel light and fast, and you’ll have maintained a great fitness level.

It gets you outside

No need to mope around the house as soon as there’s snow on the ground. Fat bikes are like the monster trucks of the cycling world – they will get you through just about anything. Getting out in the sunshine and fresh air, even if it’s cold, is the best way to make the most of every season. Research has also shown that the cold can actually raise your metabolism as your body works to keep warm, which means burning extra calories!

Why You Need to Try Fat BikingIt builds your endurance

Fat biking will make you a stronger rider and build your endurance, both physically and mentally. Riding in the elements on a bike that requires constant spinning (there’s pretty much no coasting) will up your overall toughness level. Plus, if you ever hit a race in your regular season that has bad weather, it’ll be nothing compared to your miles put in with the snow and mud.

You can ride a fat bike all year round

There are those that choose to ride a fat bike all year due to the feeling of the bike, particularly the stability and suspension of the fat tires. Many models can also accept multiple wheel sizes, so you can switch out your tires for skinnier ones before hitting the dry single track.

How to choose a fat bike

With the rise in popularity, the variety of fat bikes available has made choosing one a little more complicated. Although we can give you the basic features to look out for, a visit to your local bike shop will help you make a more informed decision. It’s also great to try one out before buying to ensure you enjoy the feel of it.

  • Frame capability – Think about how much “flotation” you want. Generally speaking there are two sizes: those that accommodate 4 inch Why You Need to Try Fat Biking ires, and those for 5 inch or wider tires. If you’re sticking to groomed or somewhat packed down trails, 4 inch tires will be all you need.
  • Rigid frame or suspension – Most fat bikes are a rigid frame as the tires and low pressure make up for the lack of suspension, but many are now also equipped with a suspension fork. Going with a frame with suspension can be a great option for really rough terrain, or if you plan on riding the bike all year round.
  • Frame size – As with any bike, you want to ensure you get the right size for you, and it’s always worth having a proper bike fit to ensure maximum efficiency. Most frames are set up with similar geometry to a mountain bike to remain stable over rough terrain.
  • Tires – As with road and mountain bike, fat bike tires can come in a variety of designs. Most are either clincher or tubeless. You’ll also want to take a look at size. The general size is 4 inches, but there are both smaller and larger tires available depending on the terrain you’ll be riding.
  • Brakes – If you’re planning on riding in the Arctic, or anywhere else that experiences freezing temperatures, then you’ll want to go with the basic mechanical, cable-actuated disc brakes. Hydraulic disc brakes are a great option, but only if you’re sticking to warmer climates as mineral oil can easily freeze.

Check out this list of the top ten best fat bikes for more information.

Fat biking really has become it’s own sport, and with good reason. It’s as much fun as it looks, and there are a ton of events that now incorporate fat bikes to get you through the long cold winters. Additionally, many bikepackers are choosing fat bike frames to widen their adventure possibilities. Check out the video below for some added inspiration to get you going.

A Beginner’s Guide to Handlebar Tape

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Handlebar tape is an often overlooked aspect of your bike, but it effects both how your bike looks and feels. It covers the essential contact point between you and and your bike, so it’s the easiest way to make your bike feel like new. The tape will work to absorb some of the bumps in the road, as well as provide grip for your hands. Historically, handlebars were wrapped in simple white cloth tape, but now there are a ton of options when it comes to material and colour. So, if you’re looking for a way to spend some quality time with your bike, changing your handlebar tape can be a great way to do it.

How often should you replace handlebar tape?

Cyclists know that certain items, tires, chains, and gears should be replaced at regular intervals, but how often should you replace your bar tape? This will be dependent on how much you ride, but it should be done at least a once a year. Think of how much your hands sweat out on a hot ride, or the dirt and dust from the road making it’s way to your handlebars. It can get pretty nasty looking, especially if it’s white, so you’ll want to make a habit of changing it out.

What to look for in handlebar tape

Grip

Handlebar tape does more than just make your bike look good, it serves as your main point of contact. So, it’s important to choose tape that provides adequate grip for the handling of your bike. Look for something with a tacky finish to ensure you get grip even in wet conditions. This is especially important if you are riding without gloves.

Padding

Handlebar tape provides a nice bit of cushioning for your hands, reducing the vibrations that travel from the road up into your arms. Choose tape that provides the right amount of padding for you and the type of riding you do. Many cyclists choose to double wrap their bars for a little extra cushion, especially when riding on rougher roads.

Looks

There are all sorts of unspoken rules out there. Some say your bar tape should match your saddle, or your kit, or your head tube…the list goes on. The truth of it is, you should chose whatever tape feels the best in a colour that catches your eye.

Types of Handlebar Tape

Bar tape is prone to wear and tear, but luckily most is relatively inexpensive. There are plenty of options to explore too, and new tape will always rejuvenate a tired-looking bike. It’s worth experiencing the subtle differences in comfort, feel, and performance offered by different brands and materials.

Cotton Bar Tape

Cotton is old-school. Any bike built before about 1985 probably has cotton bar tape. Cotton tape is very cheap but it’s not widely available, and your best bet may be to go shopping online for it. Cotton tape comes in a roll with an adhesive backing that is easy to apply to a clean set of bars. Cycling purists like to give cotton tape several coats of shellac to protect the material and prevent it from unwrapping. That’s why some older bikes seem to have shiny handlebars.

Cork/Synthetic Bar Tape

By 1987, cork tape had for the most part replaced cotton as the tape of choice. Contemporary cork tape is actually a synthetic blend of cork and ethylene vinyl acetate. Cork/synthetic tape is more expensive than cotton, but typically also comes with a with a small strip of adhesive backing. Cork/synthetic tape needs to be stretched carefully when wrapping the bars, otherwise it looks untidy and is prone to unravelling. Take care with cork blends, stretch them too tight and they will break. Cork tape is typically too thick for designs such as the harlequin or other pattern making. The main advantage of cork is that it absorbs shock and sweat like nothing else.

High-Tech Bar Tape

Most contemporary bar tapes are made from a lightweight and durable synthetics, in combination with a foam or gel core for cushioning. Materials such as polyurethane, synthetic nylon or silicone are strong, lightweight and durable and often have a tacky  texture that aids grip and contributes to a positive feel to your hands. Some have a perforated surface, others a ‘microfiber’ smooth feel, while others have a textured surface. Some look like faux leather or faux carbon. These newer formulas add good vibration dampening, without the bulkiness that can come from old-school tapes like cork.

Leather Bar Tape

If you’ve ever heard of the Brooks saddle you won’t be surprised that leather bar tape is at the top of the heap. Leather tape just feels good in your hands. Expect to pay around $100 for leather handlebar tape. You can also expect it to last forever. Some cyclists claim that it improves with age, just like a Brooks saddle. If you’re into changing the tape every year as suggested, leather probably isn’t the best choice. The downside to leather is that it doesn’t provide a vibration dampening effect like cork or gel.

How To Change Your Handlebar Tape

Bar tape can last for years, and it typically comes already installed on a new bike. It might seem easy enough; wrapping tape around bars. But it’s not that simple. Not all cyclists know how to wrap a bar and make it last. In fact, it’s one of the most common things done wrong on bicycles.

What You’ll Need

  • Electrical tape
  • Scissors
  • Clean hands or gloves
  • New handlebar tape

1. Remove Old Handlebar Tape

Do whatever it takes to remove the old bar tape. It might just unravel when you remove the plugs, or you can use tweezers or pliers to grip it an pull it off delicately.

2. Clean the Bars

Use a bike specific cleaner or anything that will remove tacky substances. Make sure it’s dry and without any residue to ensure a good bond with your handlebars.

3. Make Adjustments & Secure Cables

If you’re replace existing tape, the hoods should already be in the right position, but this is your chance to move them if you desire. Make the adjustments, and tighten the hoods to the handlebars. It’s typically done with a 5mm hex wrench. The bolt is usually on the outside of the lever under the hood. Its a good idea to ride the bike before applying the tape, to ensure the hoods are where you want them, because after wrapping the bars, they’re difficult to move without disturbing the tape.

Use black electrical tape to secure the brake cables to the bars if applicable. Some bars have holes in them for this purpose, and you can skip the electrical tape. It typically takes 3 or 4 strips of electrical tape to secure the brake line to drop bars.

4. Wrap It

The jury is still out on the direction, and whether to wind clockwise or counterclockwise is up to you. Some prefer to start in the center, on either side of the handlebars. Some prefer to anchor the tape with the plugs, and work toward the handlebars. Because the procedure varies wildly due to your choice of designs, the procedure can also vary.

In general, the most popular technique is to start at the end of the bars leaving about a half-inch overhanging the end of the bars. This is so you stuff it inside the bars when you insert the bar-end plug to secure it. Then start wrapping the bar tape leaving about 1/4 of an inch to a half overlapping the previous. Make sure you keep it snug as you go. When you get to the hoods there are a few ways to do it, but in general, you want to make sure that no metal on the bars is showing. Then continue toward the stem stopping two to three inches from the stem. Cut the tape so it forms a straight edge and wrap a few layers of electrical tape around the end to secure it. Then the nice tape that generally comes with new bar tape can be wrapped over the electrical tape giving it a sleek look.

How to Choose the Best Cycling Jersey

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If you are new to the exhilarating cycling world, then welcome! Cycling is an amazing way to stay in shape, meet new people, and explore both your neighbourhood and the world. That being said, getting started with cycling can seem daunting. There are a ton of opinions out there on what bike is best, what gear is best, the best training or nutrition plan, what to wear–we could go on and on. When you’re heading out on your first few rides, the idea of putting on head to toe lycra may seem like overkill. If you’re looking for a general guide on what to wear cycling, click here. In this article we’re going to go into how to choose the best cycling jersey, and go through some of the best options out there.

What is a cycling jersey?

Cycling jerseys are made from materials that should work to get moisture away from your body. The general design will be a zipper down the front, with back pockets specifically designed to carry food, tools, and whatever else you’ll need out on the road. They have a shorter front panel (as you will be bent over on your bike), with a longer back panel. The bottom hem will have silicon grip tape to keep the jersey in place as you ride. A jersey should be fairly form fitting to keep you as aerodynamic as possible.

Why wear a cycling jersey?

In a word: functionality. Cycling jerseys are designed to be the best tool for the job. Most are made from material that will wick moisture away from your body, keeping you comfortable and cool. The back pockets are perfect for storing snacks, tools, and your cell phone. The snug fit keeps the jersey from flapping around in the wind making you more aerodynamic (and comfortable). Go for one ride in a loose fitting t-shirt and you’ll soon realize all the benefits of a cycling jersey.

What Type of Cycling Jersey is Right for Me?

There are two main types of cycling jerseys: race cut and club cut.

Race cuts are tailored for the fittest cyclists, such as the pros. The tightest cut available, they are form fitting so they are aerodynamic. There is generally a significant rear dip in the waistline so that when you are in the riding position the front does not bunch up, and your back is covered.

Club cut jerseys are for the everyday rider. They have a much more relaxed fit, they have more room in the ride position, a small rear dip and are still tailored to fit but are not as tight.

What Material is Best for Cycling Jerseys?

The best type of material for you depends on what kind of rider you are and the weather conditions.

Polyester

Polyester is a man-made recyclable synthetic material and is today’s most popular choice of material for cycling jerseys.

Pros

  • Great at wicking away sweat from the body and keeps your skin dry.
  • Helps keep you cool on hot days and is even UV resistant.
  • Extremely durable and can be washed and the color will not fade or wash out.
  • Mold and mildew cannot survive on it.
  • Can be bought at lower prices than other materials.
  • Great for warm or hot weather.

Cons

  • Plastic feel or artificial feel (can be fixed by washing with fabric softener).

Nylon

Nylon is another synthetic material that is known for its strength and stretchiness.

Pros

  • One of the strongest man-made fabrics.
  • Stretches, which can improve aerodynamics as it will fit snuggly.
  • Good at wicking away sweat.
  • Holds color well without fading.
  • Resistant to mildew and rot.
  • Wind and water resistant.
  • Good in all weather conditions.

Cons

  • Mold can form which can be very difficult to wash out.
  • Absorbs odors.
  • Nylon can shrink if not handled properly.
  • Not biodegradable and has an environmental impact.

Merino Wool

Pros

  • Keeps you warmer than any other material.
  • Most water resistant material.
  • Best wicking material available.
  • UV resistant.
  • Does not absorb odors.
  • Great soft feel.

Cons

  • Very expensive.
  • Can be too hot in warm or hot weather.

The Best Cycling Jerseys

Northwave Blade Air 3

Price: $54

Designed for hot weather riding, the Northwave Blade Air does a great job at keeping you dry and cool. It’s also easy to wash and care for, which is a bonus!

Castelli Entrada 3

Price: $59

The Castelli Entrada jersey takes pro racing technology and applies it to all-round performance and comfort. 100% polyester with Air Mesh fabric around the shoulders and sleeves, there’s a little extra stretch to give you a relaxed fit.

Endura FS260

Price: $34

The Endura FS260 Jersey is designed for hot climates and riders looking to stay cool and have maximum ventilation and temperature control. The Coldblack® treatment reflects UV rays and will keep your body cooler for longer.

Santini Lapis 

Price: $50

Great for slightly cooler weather, the Santini Lapis Short Sleeve Jersey  is made of from lightweight Rewind fabric on the front and back offering excellent breathability. Its slightly relaxed fit more comfort for the casual rider.

Giordana Sosta 

Price: $132

Perfect for when the weather turns cool, the Giordana Sosta Wool long sleeve jersey will keep the cold at bay and keep you visible in the lower light. The jersey is made of a knitted, heathered blend called Koln, which incorporates merino wool and nylon. The extended collar will feel great on those chilly mornings, and it includes a zippered pocket for items like keys and ID.

How to Dry Your Cycling Shoes Quickly

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You just got in from a ride in a surprise rain storm. Fortunately, your upper body is relatively dry because you packed your rain jacket, but your feet are totally soaked and you plan on riding tomorrow. What you need to know is how to dry your shoes quickly. You can just hope they dry in time but chances are that you’ll be slipping into cold, wet shoes which feels, oh so good. Additionally, if you are riding for performance, having wet shoes simply adds more rotational weight that you have to move around each pedal stroke.

First – Remove Everything You Can

If your shoes are so soaked that there are puddles in them, dump them out. Then take out the footbeds and set them aside to dry. They should dry out pretty quickly but just to be safe place them on newspaper in front of some sort of vent, whether it’s the heater, ac, or dehumidifier. Open up all of the buckles, straps, and tongues to expose as much of the shoe as possible.

Keep Some Old Newspapers Around

Old newspapers are great for drying out your shoes. You should have a bunch on hand because you will change the newspaper a few times. If you’re cheap and lazy you can dry out the newspapers and use them again. Once everything on the shoe is open, shove as much newspaper in as you can. It will soak up water very quickly. The first round of newspaper should only last twenty to thirty minutes. If the shoes are really wet, the newspaper will already have soaked through. After that, you can space out the fresh newspaper intervals. Try an hour, then two hours, then the overnight shift. By the time you wake up in the morning your shoes will be completely dry and ready to ride.

Accelerate the Drying

Do not keep your shoes in a moist basement or garage when they are drying. Bring them upstairs into a well ventilated and dryer area to maximize drying potential. If you have a fan, heat or AC vent, dehumidifier, or breezy window,  that is a bonus. Make sure you still place the newspapers in them however. You will get the drying benefits from the inside and out.

Clean Your Shoes

After a wet and sloppy ride, chances are your shoes got dirty with road grime. Be sure to clean them both for appearance and functionality. Do this in a sink while they are still wet with a scrub brush. It’s alright if you use a little water; they are already wet. All of that grime gets in the buckles and strap and can make them work poorly and not last as long. Then dry your shoes after they’re cleaned.

How to Dry Your Shoes Quickly

If you know how to dry your shoes quickly, it does not take a lot of effort. The only supplies you need are old newspapers that would go in the recycling anyway. You will run into adverse weather eventually, so it pays to prepare the equipment ahead of time as well as the knowledge to deal with it beforehand. Keep your feet dry and cozy!

The Best Step Through Bikes for City Riders

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If you’ve ever struggled to get your leg up and over your bike, then you understand the reason for step through bikes. More and more manufacturers are coming to realize that there is huge market potential for easy to board bikes. Typically, even the best step through bikes suffered from weight bearing limitations, but with recent design breakthrough, they can make cycling more accessible to a lot of people.

What Are Step Through Bikes?

Step through bikes are pretty self explanatory. They are bikes with no top tube, making them easy to “step through” to mount. They often use a pedal forward design, with the pedals slightly forward of the seat tube. This makes it easier to maintain the proper seat to pedal distance, while also being able to put their feet flat on the ground while remain seated. The wheelbase will be a bit longer, which can effect handling, but it enhances the overall comfort.

Pro and Cons of Step Through Bikes

Historically, step through bikes have been regarded as women’s bikes as they allow the rider to wear a dress or skirt. However, more and more seniors, commuters, and heavier riders are opting for the easy to mount option. If you’re not quite as flexible and limber as you once were, then it’s a great option to keep you riding.

The biggest disadvantage of a step through frame is the weight, strength and stiffness. The regular diamond shaped design of most bikes is so widely used because it is the better design. The top tube gives the frame strength and stability, while allowing for the use of lightweight materials. To achieve the same strength, step through bikes have had to use heavier materials.

For city cruisers and commuters, the step through design can actually make the most sense. Stopping at stop lights and being able to remain seated while placing you feet on the ground can be plus for a lot of riders. Much more common in Europe, finding a step through bike can be a little tough depending on where you live. However, a lot of manufacturers will ship, so here are some of the best step through bikes.

The Best Step Through Bikes

Public C1

$395

If you live in a relatively flat area, the single speed Public C1 can be a great affordable option. Under $400, it has the iconic European style perfect for comfortable cruising.

Bike ID Step Through

$800

The Bike ID Step Through is made of Hi-Ten steel tubing, weighing in at 15.5kg or 34 lbs. It’s equipped with both a hand brake and a foot brake. Both brake and lever is made of aluminum, and due to a smart quick-release you can remove and replace the wheel without having to change the break settings. It is strong and durable, and will last through years of city cruising!

Shinola Bixby

$1950

The Bixby is offered in both a classic men’s and women’s frame design, with thoughtful touches like gender-specific saddle design and proportional geometry. The Bixby riffs off the fun look of the curved top tube, but improves on the fit and function with nimble frame geometry, a Shimano 3-speed internal hub and disc brakes. The Bixby is more of a hybrid between the step through and diamond design, giving the rider the best of both worlds.

Electra Amsterdam Royal 8i

$1400

The Royal 8i is a lightweight aluminum premium-edition Dutch bike: well-bred for stylish luxury and yet practical everyday cycling. Top-of-the-line Shimano Nexus 8-speed internal hub, smooth and powerful front and rear roller brakes and durable tires with Kevlar puncture-resistant casing are a few of the special upgraded features that make the Royal 8i worth every penny.

 

A Guide to the Best Cycling Sunglasses

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When you’re first getting into cycling, sunglasses may not be on the top of your list of must-haves. Most people will throw on their everyday sunglasses and hop on their bike. However, depending on the fit, they may become a pain in a hurry. There are a few things that make cycling sunglasses (or sports performance sunglasses) more up for the task at hand.

What to Look for in Cycling Sunglasses

Fit

Fit with any type of apparel is important, but sunglasses that don’t fit properly can slide down your nose, give you a pressure headache, or even create blindspots in your vision. Most brands of cycling sunglasses will have hydrophilic rubber on the nose and arms, which actually gains grip as you sweat. You will also want to try sunglasses on with your helmet to make sure the arms are comfortable. Most will have straight-back temples for optimal helmet compatibility.

Shape and Coverage

When you’re on your bike, you want the biggest field of vision possible for your own safety. When you shoulder check, you don’t want the edge of your sunglasses getting in the way and blocking your view of traffic. This is why most cycling sunglasses wrap around and include your peripherals.

Lenses

Lighter lenses are better for cycling because they can help enhance the contrast of the road, allowing you to see obstacles or rough pavement before you hit it. Most of these will have UV protection, so they will protect your eyes, but grey lenses can make the ground, shadows and potholes all look the same. Investing in prescription sunglasses can also be great for those who don’t want to wear contacts, but you will want to get the wrap around lenses so you will have clear vision in your peripherals.

The Best Cycling Sunglasses

Oakley Radar EV

Price: $193

Oakley’s original Radar eyewear combined everything they learned from decades of research with the world’s best athletes, and came out with the Oakley Radar EV. These have taller lenses, extending vision, and PRIZM Road lenses. A step beyond polarized lenses, this technology enhances contract like never before. With a lightweight design and replaceable nosepiece, you won’t even feel like you’re wearing them.

Julbo Aerolite

Price: $189

Designed with the help of world-class ultrarunners, mountain bikers and road cyclists, the Julbo Aerolite is super lightweight and fast. They have a rimless design with a wide lens surface for broad field of vision and an aerated structure that allows complete air circulation to avoid fog. With a smaller design, these are a great option for women or people with small faces, and the nose pads are adjustable to ensure a snug fit.

Bolle B-Rock

Price: $115

The Bolle B-Rock sunglasses have the benefits of the single wrap around lens, but with the added stability of a full frame. The lenses are treated with an oleophobic layer (repelling dirt, grease and water), anti-fog, and anti-reflective technology. The nosepiece adjusts both front to back, and side to side –which is great if you find other models sit too close to your eyes and eyelashes.

Smith Attack Max

Price: $249

Lightweight with extended lenses, the Smith Attack Max are for the more aggressive rider. If you spend a lot of time down on your drops, then these are probably the glasses for you. With a hydroleophobic finish, they keep sweat or rain from fogging up the lenses.

Spy Helm 2

Price: $100

The Spy Helm 2 are a great option for those wanting to buy just one pair of sunglasses that will be good for running, cycling, and hitting the patio for some post-ride beers. This upgraded model has five-barrel hinges making them “nearly indestructible” and include Happy Lens technology. Spy claims that this let’s in the good rays, while blocking out the bad ones.

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